I changed the head gasket a few weeks ago but had to remove it today for other reasons. It's a standard metal mesh sandwhiched between the black fiberus paper stuff. When I removed it this time the black paper stuff ripped into a billion pieces and is stuck all over everything, but the metal mesh is 100% intact.
Can I reuse the metal mesh and spread gasket sealer over it to compensate for the black paper stuff or do I need to buy a new one?
OR, can I buy some sheets of gasket maker from the auto parts store and cut it to fit top and bottom of the mesh gasket, and possibly seal THAT with Permatex?
It's an older bike so I'd have to order it and that'll take about a week for it to come in and I'd like to get this bike finished.Can I reuse my head gasket?A head gasket is under a lot of pressure, Buy a new one, unless you feel like redoing the work and putting in a new one in a week.Can I reuse my head gasket?no not really, but you could use a cardboard type material and resaandwich it if its easy(fire retardant).i wouldnt even try if the job takes longer than 2 hrs or if you didnt need it desperately and it wasnt gonna be here for 2 weeks.Can I reuse my head gasket?Replace the headgasket with a new one. Do not chance it. It is not worth it. Replace it.Once you torque the head, you squeeze the gasket out of shape. For no more than it would cost you, don't chance it, or you'll be tearing it down a third time.No, once you tighten it and take it back off its done you have got to replace it, i would not even chance putting the old one back onNo!Dont do it !!!Jim,
The only head gasket that is reusable is a solid copper one. Even then it must be annealed with the %26quot;Blue wrench%26quot; before it will take. The one you have is done. Ignore the outrageously ridiculous advice I've seen here in some other posts. If you can get a replacement in copper that's the way to go.
Monday, 17 October 2011
How do you change a head gasket for a ford contour 2.0 1997?
You gotta be kidding me........tell you here.....in this little space.....sh*t'n me
get a book at the auto store.
or call a reputable person off Craigslist.com in your area.How do you change a head gasket for a ford contour 2.0 1997?The cylinder head bolts are a torque-to-yield design and cannot be reused. Be sure new cylinder head bolts are available before beginning this procedure. If the cylinder head bolts are reused, engine damage may occur.
1.Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION
Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.
2.Drain the engine coolant from the radiator and the cylinder block drain plugs.
3.Remove the intake manifold.
4.Remove the exhaust manifold.
5.Remove the camshafts and valve tappets.
6.Support the engine with a wood block between the crankshaft pulley and the front sub-frame.
7.Remove the engine support device previously installed for the timing belt cover removal.
8.Remove the right-hand engine lifting eye retaining bolt and the lifting eye.
9.Remove the support bracket from the power steering pump mounting bracket and cylinder head.
10.Remove the timing belt covers.
11.Remove the camshaft timing belt tensioner pulley.
12.Remove the thermostat housing from the rear of the cylinder head.
13.Remove the ignition coil and bracket from the cylinder head.
14.Remove the spark plugs if not already removed.
15.Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts in the reverse of the installation sequence.
16.Remove the cylinder head and gasket from the engine.
17.If the cylinder head is to be serviced, remove the left-hand engine lifting eye.
To install:
18.Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block gasket surfaces and check for flatness. Refer to the Engine Reconditioning Section for procedures.
19.Install a new cylinder head gasket onto the cylinder block. Be sure the head gasket is properly positioned on the dowels.
WARNING
Use care when positioning the cylinder head to prevent damage to the head gasket or dowels.
20.Place a light coating of engine oil onto the threads of the new cylinder head bolts and install.
21.Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence and in the following steps:
Tighten all bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm)
Tighten all bolts to 30-37 ft. lbs. (40-50 Nm)
Rotate all bolts 90-120 degrees.
22.Reinstall the ignition coil bracket and the ignition coil.
23.Reinstall the water thermostat housing.
24.Reinstall the timing belt covers.
25.Reinstall the camshaft timing belt tensioner pulley and retaining bolt onto the front of the cylinder head.
26.Reinstall the support bracket to the power steering pump mounting bracket and the cylinder head.
27.Tighten the support bracket to 29-41 ft. lbs. (39-55 Nm).
28.Reinstall the right engine lifting eye to the cylinder head and the alternator mounting bracket. Tighten the retaining bolts to 30-41 ft. lbs. (41-55, Nm).
29.If removed, install the left-hand engine lifting eye to the cylinder head and tighten to 10-13 ft. lbs. (14-18 Nm).
30.Install the engine support device to the engine lifting eyes and support the engine.
31.Remove the wood block from between the sub-frame and the crankshaft pulley.
32.Reinstall the valve tappets and camshaft into their original locations.
33.Reinstall the exhaust manifold.
34.Reinstall the intake manifold.
35.Reinstall the spark plugs.
CAUTION
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.
36.Drain the engine oil and remove the engine oil filter.
WARNING
Operating the engine without the proper amount and type of engine oil will result in severe engine damage.
37.Reinstall the drain plug and tighten to 15-21 ft. lbs. (21-28 Nm).
38.Reinstall a new engine oil filter and fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of oil.
39.Fill the engine cooling system.
40.Reconnect the negative battery cable.
41.Run the engine and check for oil and coolant leaks. Check for proper engine operation.How do you change a head gasket for a ford contour 2.0 1997?Changing a head gasket is very complex task and is a bit more than an average %26quot;do-it-yourselfer%26quot; can handle. As you can see from the first guy that answered your question, special tools and expertise are required. I have seen many cars for sale online where someone attempted to replace a head or a gasket and realized They were in over their head (no pun intended) and were just trying to sell it with the motor torn apart just to get it out of their yard. I do not intend for this to sound snooty, bit if you are asking in a discussion forum how to replace a head gasket, you probably should not be trying it. Good luck to you if you do....
get a book at the auto store.
or call a reputable person off Craigslist.com in your area.How do you change a head gasket for a ford contour 2.0 1997?The cylinder head bolts are a torque-to-yield design and cannot be reused. Be sure new cylinder head bolts are available before beginning this procedure. If the cylinder head bolts are reused, engine damage may occur.
1.Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION
Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.
2.Drain the engine coolant from the radiator and the cylinder block drain plugs.
3.Remove the intake manifold.
4.Remove the exhaust manifold.
5.Remove the camshafts and valve tappets.
6.Support the engine with a wood block between the crankshaft pulley and the front sub-frame.
7.Remove the engine support device previously installed for the timing belt cover removal.
8.Remove the right-hand engine lifting eye retaining bolt and the lifting eye.
9.Remove the support bracket from the power steering pump mounting bracket and cylinder head.
10.Remove the timing belt covers.
11.Remove the camshaft timing belt tensioner pulley.
12.Remove the thermostat housing from the rear of the cylinder head.
13.Remove the ignition coil and bracket from the cylinder head.
14.Remove the spark plugs if not already removed.
15.Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts in the reverse of the installation sequence.
16.Remove the cylinder head and gasket from the engine.
17.If the cylinder head is to be serviced, remove the left-hand engine lifting eye.
To install:
18.Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block gasket surfaces and check for flatness. Refer to the Engine Reconditioning Section for procedures.
19.Install a new cylinder head gasket onto the cylinder block. Be sure the head gasket is properly positioned on the dowels.
WARNING
Use care when positioning the cylinder head to prevent damage to the head gasket or dowels.
20.Place a light coating of engine oil onto the threads of the new cylinder head bolts and install.
21.Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence and in the following steps:
Tighten all bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm)
Tighten all bolts to 30-37 ft. lbs. (40-50 Nm)
Rotate all bolts 90-120 degrees.
22.Reinstall the ignition coil bracket and the ignition coil.
23.Reinstall the water thermostat housing.
24.Reinstall the timing belt covers.
25.Reinstall the camshaft timing belt tensioner pulley and retaining bolt onto the front of the cylinder head.
26.Reinstall the support bracket to the power steering pump mounting bracket and the cylinder head.
27.Tighten the support bracket to 29-41 ft. lbs. (39-55 Nm).
28.Reinstall the right engine lifting eye to the cylinder head and the alternator mounting bracket. Tighten the retaining bolts to 30-41 ft. lbs. (41-55, Nm).
29.If removed, install the left-hand engine lifting eye to the cylinder head and tighten to 10-13 ft. lbs. (14-18 Nm).
30.Install the engine support device to the engine lifting eyes and support the engine.
31.Remove the wood block from between the sub-frame and the crankshaft pulley.
32.Reinstall the valve tappets and camshaft into their original locations.
33.Reinstall the exhaust manifold.
34.Reinstall the intake manifold.
35.Reinstall the spark plugs.
CAUTION
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.
36.Drain the engine oil and remove the engine oil filter.
WARNING
Operating the engine without the proper amount and type of engine oil will result in severe engine damage.
37.Reinstall the drain plug and tighten to 15-21 ft. lbs. (21-28 Nm).
38.Reinstall a new engine oil filter and fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of oil.
39.Fill the engine cooling system.
40.Reconnect the negative battery cable.
41.Run the engine and check for oil and coolant leaks. Check for proper engine operation.How do you change a head gasket for a ford contour 2.0 1997?Changing a head gasket is very complex task and is a bit more than an average %26quot;do-it-yourselfer%26quot; can handle. As you can see from the first guy that answered your question, special tools and expertise are required. I have seen many cars for sale online where someone attempted to replace a head or a gasket and realized They were in over their head (no pun intended) and were just trying to sell it with the motor torn apart just to get it out of their yard. I do not intend for this to sound snooty, bit if you are asking in a discussion forum how to replace a head gasket, you probably should not be trying it. Good luck to you if you do....
How do i change the head gasket in a 1982 f-150 4.9 liter?
pull the head scrape the old gasket off and then call a mechanicHow do i change the head gasket in a 1982 f-150 4.9 liter?Fortunately for you the little 300 I-6 is a very simple motor. That being said, go to a book store or parts house and get a book on rebuilding motors, it will have info on how to do it properly. Good luck.How do i change the head gasket in a 1982 f-150 4.9 liter?Clean everything away from you head so you can work. Remembering what might go where .... use some masking take to mark if nessesary...... take valve covers off......Loosen manifolds off. After taking valve cover off you remove rocker arm. take out lifters and push rods setting them aside.... now remove bolds holding head on....... it will lift out with a little pursuading........ clean old gasket out..... clean up bottom of head and where they sit with steel wool....... put new gasket in. using any directions......... Put head back in place. Be very care bolting back in... use torque wrench .... find out torqe ... I don't know....remember go around and bolt it right.... little on each going like you do when changing a tire.... BE VERY CAREFUL YOU CAN WARPE THE HEAD....Thyen put lifters push rods and rocker back on...You can do it and I have done it before ....... and I am not a mechanic......
If you google this question you may find ore help .......
What you have just done on a saturday just saved you many hundred dollars....they charge about 1200.00 to 1500.00How do i change the head gasket in a 1982 f-150 4.9 liter?It is easy ,all the room is there.Hardest part is to lift the cylinder head out.Start with the valve cover,intake and exhaust manifold bolts.Then head bolts.The instructions provided were basically correct. You need to get a manual so you know 1) the torque specs for each bolt and 2) the sequence to tighten the head bolts (center out in a clockwise pattern?). Lifting the head out is a bit heavy, I ruptured a disk doing mine on the 250.
Get a head rebuild kit from your parts dealer and it will have all the correct gaskets. While you have the head off, do a valve job. ream the guides and replace the seals
If you google this question you may find ore help .......
What you have just done on a saturday just saved you many hundred dollars....they charge about 1200.00 to 1500.00How do i change the head gasket in a 1982 f-150 4.9 liter?It is easy ,all the room is there.Hardest part is to lift the cylinder head out.Start with the valve cover,intake and exhaust manifold bolts.Then head bolts.The instructions provided were basically correct. You need to get a manual so you know 1) the torque specs for each bolt and 2) the sequence to tighten the head bolts (center out in a clockwise pattern?). Lifting the head out is a bit heavy, I ruptured a disk doing mine on the 250.
Get a head rebuild kit from your parts dealer and it will have all the correct gaskets. While you have the head off, do a valve job. ream the guides and replace the seals
Head gasket!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?
hi, just need to know how hard it is to change a head gasket, and what makes it so expensive in a garage? is it the labour or parts???
a quick answer would be great thanks in advance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Head gasket!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?mostly labour have to tear half the engine downHead gasket!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?Time consuming on most cars - labour is the biggyHead gasket!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?6 hours labour 拢180
Head skimmed and pressure tested 拢80
Gasket kit 拢80
This covers the basics only.
Varies according to the car model.What makes it hard is the intake and exhaust system. Exhaust systems are notorious for frozen nuts and broken studs. Along with this goes having to pull ignition parts on some cars.
The cost is almost all labor.
For some one to do it themselves, it will take almost (if not more) money to buy all the tools needed.
On some cars (in-line) the job can be done on two hours, while on others (V) it can take a day (or more).
If you are having this job done by a professional, they will have connections to make sure that it is just the gasket and not a warped head or cracks.Its a highly labour weighted job. You have to remove all the gear off the top part of the engine, ignition, filters, manifolds, drain the coolant etc. The head, camshaft or valves may need some work done to them before the gasket is replaced and the rebuild commenced. As well as putting it all back together the timing has to be set too, which can be a complex job. Its common practice to renew the oil and filters after this jobIt's not so much the parts that makes it expensive. Its the time it takes,and you will need to have the head skimmed.To replace a cylinder head gasket you need to remove both the inlet and the exhaust manifolds, timing chain or belt covers and belt/chain. Drain the coolant, remove the rocker cover, loosen all the head bolts and then remove the head.
Once the head is off ideally to should be pressure tested to see if its cracked, it should also be checked to make sure it is still straight and true. Depending on the results you may need to have the head repaired and or machined.
All the head bolt holes need to have there threads cleaned up and then you have to re-build the engine back up.
Its a lot of labour and this makes the job expensive.
Ja.its labour that puts the price up and if the cylinder head needs engineering that also increase cost.It depends on the car an 8 valve over head valve engine can be changed quickly about 2 to 2.5 hours because you don have to have the head skimmed and it is easy to remove.
other cars lets say a rover 16 valve over head cam is more time consuming as you have to skim the head replace the timing belt etc.
The gaskets can cost between 拢10 to 拢60.printer wont turn on data into xsds
a quick answer would be great thanks in advance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Head gasket!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?mostly labour have to tear half the engine downHead gasket!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?Time consuming on most cars - labour is the biggyHead gasket!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?6 hours labour 拢180
Head skimmed and pressure tested 拢80
Gasket kit 拢80
This covers the basics only.
Varies according to the car model.What makes it hard is the intake and exhaust system. Exhaust systems are notorious for frozen nuts and broken studs. Along with this goes having to pull ignition parts on some cars.
The cost is almost all labor.
For some one to do it themselves, it will take almost (if not more) money to buy all the tools needed.
On some cars (in-line) the job can be done on two hours, while on others (V) it can take a day (or more).
If you are having this job done by a professional, they will have connections to make sure that it is just the gasket and not a warped head or cracks.Its a highly labour weighted job. You have to remove all the gear off the top part of the engine, ignition, filters, manifolds, drain the coolant etc. The head, camshaft or valves may need some work done to them before the gasket is replaced and the rebuild commenced. As well as putting it all back together the timing has to be set too, which can be a complex job. Its common practice to renew the oil and filters after this jobIt's not so much the parts that makes it expensive. Its the time it takes,and you will need to have the head skimmed.To replace a cylinder head gasket you need to remove both the inlet and the exhaust manifolds, timing chain or belt covers and belt/chain. Drain the coolant, remove the rocker cover, loosen all the head bolts and then remove the head.
Once the head is off ideally to should be pressure tested to see if its cracked, it should also be checked to make sure it is still straight and true. Depending on the results you may need to have the head repaired and or machined.
All the head bolt holes need to have there threads cleaned up and then you have to re-build the engine back up.
Its a lot of labour and this makes the job expensive.
Ja.its labour that puts the price up and if the cylinder head needs engineering that also increase cost.It depends on the car an 8 valve over head valve engine can be changed quickly about 2 to 2.5 hours because you don have to have the head skimmed and it is easy to remove.
other cars lets say a rover 16 valve over head cam is more time consuming as you have to skim the head replace the timing belt etc.
The gaskets can cost between 拢10 to 拢60.
How to know if its a Head Gasket Problem?
Hi! Thanks for reading my question.
I was thinking about buying a cheap vehicle (under $1000) and take my time learning how to change the head gasket and timing belt and later see it if all goes well.
So looking at Craigslist, I see many people who claim that their car has a head gasket problem.. some say they run, some say they dont.
So my question is, How do I know for sure if its a head gasket problem and that its not something worse.
Because by my understanding, head gaskets burn due to overheating.. So the engine could have even cracked or extended in size due to it being so hott.
Please explain! Thank youu! :)How to know if its a Head Gasket Problem?You have to do a pressure test ...You also have to use a dye to help you find out what head is bad...Usually people will try to sell the car instead of fixing it...Usually these cars are hondas or toyotas that have aluminum heads...Sometimes the head itself is bad due to over heating...So just fixing the head gasket is opening a can of worms......Instaed of a 800.00 repair it can be over 2000.00....How to know if its a Head Gasket Problem?You have nailed the issue of this one. Anytime a head gasket blows, there is overheating involved. Which in turn can cause warping and cracking of heads and blocks.
That being said, Oftentimes, it is simply a matter of having the head machined (to get rid of any warping) buying appropriate gaskets and installing the head correctly.
good luck.
I was thinking about buying a cheap vehicle (under $1000) and take my time learning how to change the head gasket and timing belt and later see it if all goes well.
So looking at Craigslist, I see many people who claim that their car has a head gasket problem.. some say they run, some say they dont.
So my question is, How do I know for sure if its a head gasket problem and that its not something worse.
Because by my understanding, head gaskets burn due to overheating.. So the engine could have even cracked or extended in size due to it being so hott.
Please explain! Thank youu! :)How to know if its a Head Gasket Problem?You have to do a pressure test ...You also have to use a dye to help you find out what head is bad...Usually people will try to sell the car instead of fixing it...Usually these cars are hondas or toyotas that have aluminum heads...Sometimes the head itself is bad due to over heating...So just fixing the head gasket is opening a can of worms......Instaed of a 800.00 repair it can be over 2000.00....How to know if its a Head Gasket Problem?You have nailed the issue of this one. Anytime a head gasket blows, there is overheating involved. Which in turn can cause warping and cracking of heads and blocks.
That being said, Oftentimes, it is simply a matter of having the head machined (to get rid of any warping) buying appropriate gaskets and installing the head correctly.
good luck.
Can backfires really blow your head gasket?
When I replaced the head gasket on my truck I was 180 off on the distributor and it made many back fires before I could get it running correctly now that I have it running again I am finding water in my oil which makes me red hot because thats why I busted my balls the first time to change the head gasket but could it have been because when I pulled the intake manifold off all the coolant went into the block would that be the cause of water in my oil or would it be all the back fires blew the head gasket again? Oh and also I changed the oil to try and get rid of all the water in the oil and when I took it for a 4 minute drive when I came back I saw there was still some water in the oil would it be just left overs from the old oil that had all the water in it?Can backfires really blow your head gasket?1.No backfiring won't blow a head gasket.
2.YES, absolutely when you took the intake off, (Which has water jackets going through it), your coolant went down into the block.
3.Did you use a non-retorquing head gasket? You know, like a Fel-Pro blue? If not, did you re-torque the heads after the engine had warmed up good? If not, you get to clean the block and heads, buy new head gasket/s, and start over.
4.Drain all the oil, and make sure you leave the drain plug out for an hour or so. Change the filter. Replace the oil.
5.If you don't get the intake sealed properly, you will have water going down inside the block, and the combustion chambers. Gasket compound is used in the corners where the intake gaskets meet the intake valley gaskets.
The area on the block needs to be CLEAN! Make sure there is absolutely no garbage on the block sealing surface area. Make sure there is no garbage on the intake sealing surfaces. (Gasket scraper until you see shiny metal. NO nothing, on either block, or intake surfaces!)
Take clean rags, and use isopropyl alcohol, and wipe these areas down. If antifreeze is left behind, it won't let gasket compound stick. Antifreeze contains lubricant. It lubricates the water pump.
Edit:
When torquing the head/s, did you follow the torque sequence? Did you tighten all the bolts to a certain torque, then go around the bolts again, and again?
Example: Heads require 65 foot pounds of torque. They should be tightened down in three stages. 20lbs, then 40lbs, then the final torque of 65lbs. You MUST follow the torque pattern for THESE heads. Rule of Thumb, is to start from the center, and spiral out.
If the intake wasn't absolutely clean, and the block surface, plus gasket goop applied in the corners, you're going to keep seeing water in the oil. If the head gasket was the re-torque kind, and you didn't re-torque it, you're going to see bubbles coming up in your radiator. Blown head gasket again!Can backfires really blow your head gasket?Backfires occur in either the intake or exhaust (and given your situation almost assuredly it was in the exhaust) so the likelihood of it causing a head gasket issue seems pretty low. If it did occur in the intake, it could I suppose have damaged the intake manifold gasket which would cause oil and water to mix.
Are you sure it's water in the oil and not gasoline? If you had the timing so far off, the cylinders were probably filling with gasoline which eventually will end up in the oil pan. Are you seeing oil in the coolant as well? I could see possibly not getting all of the foreign fluid out of the oil just by changing the oil, but it would depend on how long the car sat before drained it and whether or not you changed the filter too.Can backfires really blow your head gasket?no a backfire will not blow your head gasket, it is designed to hold the combustion in the chamber. when a backfire happens it it is escaping into the intake or exhaust (less combustion). it sounds to me like something wasnt torqued correctly or is miss aligned or maybe a crack somewhere. if you already changed your oil then all the coolant should be out of your oil pan. how does the truck run? any smoke? noises, overheating?
the best way to tell if it is fuel is to smell it. sounds like it needs to be taken back apart to me thoughDid you Magna flux heads to look for cracks?Did you seal head gaskets and are they correct?Check to make sure heads are true?Did you put new head bolts in and re-torque heads after running engine?Steel is crystiline and can stretch.You didn't mention year/make of your truck.
2.YES, absolutely when you took the intake off, (Which has water jackets going through it), your coolant went down into the block.
3.Did you use a non-retorquing head gasket? You know, like a Fel-Pro blue? If not, did you re-torque the heads after the engine had warmed up good? If not, you get to clean the block and heads, buy new head gasket/s, and start over.
4.Drain all the oil, and make sure you leave the drain plug out for an hour or so. Change the filter. Replace the oil.
5.If you don't get the intake sealed properly, you will have water going down inside the block, and the combustion chambers. Gasket compound is used in the corners where the intake gaskets meet the intake valley gaskets.
The area on the block needs to be CLEAN! Make sure there is absolutely no garbage on the block sealing surface area. Make sure there is no garbage on the intake sealing surfaces. (Gasket scraper until you see shiny metal. NO nothing, on either block, or intake surfaces!)
Take clean rags, and use isopropyl alcohol, and wipe these areas down. If antifreeze is left behind, it won't let gasket compound stick. Antifreeze contains lubricant. It lubricates the water pump.
Edit:
When torquing the head/s, did you follow the torque sequence? Did you tighten all the bolts to a certain torque, then go around the bolts again, and again?
Example: Heads require 65 foot pounds of torque. They should be tightened down in three stages. 20lbs, then 40lbs, then the final torque of 65lbs. You MUST follow the torque pattern for THESE heads. Rule of Thumb, is to start from the center, and spiral out.
If the intake wasn't absolutely clean, and the block surface, plus gasket goop applied in the corners, you're going to keep seeing water in the oil. If the head gasket was the re-torque kind, and you didn't re-torque it, you're going to see bubbles coming up in your radiator. Blown head gasket again!Can backfires really blow your head gasket?Backfires occur in either the intake or exhaust (and given your situation almost assuredly it was in the exhaust) so the likelihood of it causing a head gasket issue seems pretty low. If it did occur in the intake, it could I suppose have damaged the intake manifold gasket which would cause oil and water to mix.
Are you sure it's water in the oil and not gasoline? If you had the timing so far off, the cylinders were probably filling with gasoline which eventually will end up in the oil pan. Are you seeing oil in the coolant as well? I could see possibly not getting all of the foreign fluid out of the oil just by changing the oil, but it would depend on how long the car sat before drained it and whether or not you changed the filter too.Can backfires really blow your head gasket?no a backfire will not blow your head gasket, it is designed to hold the combustion in the chamber. when a backfire happens it it is escaping into the intake or exhaust (less combustion). it sounds to me like something wasnt torqued correctly or is miss aligned or maybe a crack somewhere. if you already changed your oil then all the coolant should be out of your oil pan. how does the truck run? any smoke? noises, overheating?
the best way to tell if it is fuel is to smell it. sounds like it needs to be taken back apart to me thoughDid you Magna flux heads to look for cracks?Did you seal head gaskets and are they correct?Check to make sure heads are true?Did you put new head bolts in and re-torque heads after running engine?Steel is crystiline and can stretch.You didn't mention year/make of your truck.
HEAD GASKET HELP!!!!!?
i just took of my heads and the pistons were filled with coolant. the problem is that the head gaskets looked good and the heads looked good, but someone told me that you cant tell if the heads or gaskets are leaking or blown just by looking at it. he said you have to check to see if the heads are leveled and he said to change the head gaskets even though if the head gaskets looks good, it can still be messed up. IS THIS TRUE??HEAD GASKET HELP!!!!!?NEVER reuse a head gasket, take the heads to a machine shop and have them machine them flat. then get a new head gasket and put it back together.HEAD GASKET HELP!!!!!?could be a cracked head too. it would be a good idea to have the heads serviced before you put them back on with new gaskets. as for the pistons filled with coolant you should have drained the radiator first, once you loosen the head bolts the fluid will run into the cylinders.HEAD GASKET HELP!!!!!?Inspect each cylinder and head closely. If you notice one cylinder or combustion chanber in the heads looks a lot cleaner than the others that's where the leak was. Water in the cylinder will literally steam clean the cylinder. Look at each spark plug individually. Also find a good straight edge and check your heads. It is a possible to warp a head and cause a gasket leak.that is true, anytime u take the heads off u should put new gaskets on, ur old gaskets may not go back in the identical position they were in and when u torque them back down they won't compress the way they should. this could cause a leak or even warp or crack ur heads. if u have fluid in the cylinders u'd better have the heads magniflexed to check for cracks and for level and hope it's not the block that's cracked.
when u put the heads back on remember, they need to be torqued to specs and in the proper pattern. Ask a dealer or auto parts store for the specs.
good luckYes it is true.You can't tell by how the gaskets and heads look. If you have aluminum heads they will warp if the car overheated. They have to be leveled by a pro. And the gaskets always need to be replaced. Why take the chance by not putting in new gaskets.
when u put the heads back on remember, they need to be torqued to specs and in the proper pattern. Ask a dealer or auto parts store for the specs.
good luckYes it is true.You can't tell by how the gaskets and heads look. If you have aluminum heads they will warp if the car overheated. They have to be leveled by a pro. And the gaskets always need to be replaced. Why take the chance by not putting in new gaskets.
Subscribe to:
Posts
(Atom)