its had a full service head gasket changed new belt and pulleys. And its struggling to do 12 mpg (driving carefully) used to be 18 mpg. Also when first started in the morning when i push the accelerator it stutters quite badly till it warms up :(|||We used to have one.. These things are nothing but trouble.. as we well found out..
Our next car was a ford galaxy.. Don%26#039;t get one of these either.. no really.. DON%26#039;T!|||perhaps the coolant tempertaure sensor has packed up this can cause the engine to think its cold and puts more petrol in.
or the timing may be a tooth out.|||Take it back. The whole of the fuel and ignition system has to come off to change the head gasket, and everything needs to be retuned. Sounds like they haven%26#039;t bothered.
Your rights under the Supply of Goods and Services Act 1982 entitle you to have your car serviced to a reasonable standard. If they refuse to put it right for free, get another garage to fix it, then issue a County Court summons against the first garage reclaiming the cost.|||I would suggest from my experience as a mechanic , that the garage has got the Engine Timing out on one or more of the 3 Toothed Pulleys when they assembled the belt and pulleys, its down the garage you had the work done at to rectify this problem .... I would Recommend Not even to drive the car in case the belt jumps another tooth and causes a collision between the Valves and Pistons ... Call the garage out asap .. before this problem gets very expensive ..!
Sunday 5 June 2011
How to change a head gasket on 1988 chevy 2500 350 engine?
How to change a head gasket on 1988 chevy 2500 350 engine?|||And after you get your manual, be sure you clean all sealing surfaces to avoid any leaks or do overs. And don%26#039;t forget to mark distributor, rotor and all wires for ease of re-installation. When torquing go in steps 88 is probably 65-70 ft. pounds in the proper sequence, but be sure to buy manual. I would also buy some new head bolts, and use small amount of oil on threads, clean out all holes in question. Soak all manifold, exhaust, and intake bolts down with PB Blaster prier to removing them. You don%26#039;t want to break them.|||Simply take off everything that is on the engine above the head gasket. Take off the old head gasket, clean the block, have the heads machined and put the new head gasket back on along with everything you took off.|||drain the anti-freeze. take off the exhaust manifold, take off the valve pan gaskets and loosen the rockers, slide the rockers to 1 side and pull the push rods and take out the head bolts. if the intake bolts goes down through the heads then you have to remove the distributor and the intake.|||Go to local auto parts store and buy either a Chiltons or Haynes manual on the vehicle. It will have step by step instructions including pictures. It will be the best 25 dollar investment you could make. It will also contain other information on your truck. It is a reference guide written for the novice mechanic covering everything bumper to bumper on the vehicle.
How hard to change head gasket on a 92 3000gt vr4?
If its leaking alot of oil should i try to fix it or sell it...Is this engine, 6g72 hard to fix?? II know they are expensive but are they easy to mod or fix on??|||well it will take u about 4 days to do it your self depending on how handy you are with that kind of stuff and between 300$ and up|||a head gasket will not cause a oil leak.. put some cardboard under the engine to catch oil and then you know where to look make shure the cardboard is under the transmission to
How hard is it to change a head gasket?
On a BMW? I am not afraid but have never done this before. Is it just as simple as unbolting the head, cleaning and replacing the gasket and rebolting, or am I oversimplifying the process? I have changed a starter and other simple repairs before. Input appreciated.|||Alot of work , more then you think. I suggest if you never did it before , don%26#039;t try it now. Take it and get it done. Good Luck|||nope not as simple as that. you have to put certain bolts in first, tighten them with a torque wrench and god knows what else. half the time the bolts break off and have to be re-tapped. this is one job i would have a professional mechanic do.|||you need to get a shop manual for your specific vehicle and read the ENTIRE process before you start. You will get an idea of what needs to come off and the tools needed. You may want to have your head inspected while it is off to make sure it isn%26#039;t cracked, warped...
I would also heed others advice about broken and frozen bolts. They can be a real pain.|||You might just be simplifying it a wee bit.
Best to get a Haynes service manual or similar repair book, and follow the procedures outlined, and especially the sequence of bolt tightening, also the proper torque must be followed.
A torque wrench is a must.
Depending on the mileage of the vehicle, it might be a good idea to have the valves re surfaced while the head is off.
Since this may be your first time, just be careful and read the step by step instructions, then go for it, everyone that has done this had to start somewhere.,.Good luck.|||The new parts will not line up with the existing head, so get a new BMW or spend the money on another car...dont waste investing into the head gasket price and labor costs if applicable.
Doesnt always work when replacing gasket...new gaskets can leak as well.|||Heyy, yeahhh...removing the head gasket is piss easy. First you take the Cam Cover off then you remove the gasket - replace it, then bolt it all back up...but remember if you have the user manual for the car, look for torque wrench settings and look under cam cover for the measurements because you need to follow manufactures specifications :)|||will need the repair manual for your engine so can have the torque spec.and the bolt tightening sequence,when tightening the heads back down,and the right tools for the job if not already have?and if you have a v6 or v8 will be taking every thing off, down to the block,so basically the top half of the motor.lots of work and time.but if you have the time will save you a few hundred bucks doing it yourself,have done plenty in my day,
I would also heed others advice about broken and frozen bolts. They can be a real pain.|||You might just be simplifying it a wee bit.
Best to get a Haynes service manual or similar repair book, and follow the procedures outlined, and especially the sequence of bolt tightening, also the proper torque must be followed.
A torque wrench is a must.
Depending on the mileage of the vehicle, it might be a good idea to have the valves re surfaced while the head is off.
Since this may be your first time, just be careful and read the step by step instructions, then go for it, everyone that has done this had to start somewhere.,.Good luck.|||The new parts will not line up with the existing head, so get a new BMW or spend the money on another car...dont waste investing into the head gasket price and labor costs if applicable.
Doesnt always work when replacing gasket...new gaskets can leak as well.|||Heyy, yeahhh...removing the head gasket is piss easy. First you take the Cam Cover off then you remove the gasket - replace it, then bolt it all back up...but remember if you have the user manual for the car, look for torque wrench settings and look under cam cover for the measurements because you need to follow manufactures specifications :)|||will need the repair manual for your engine so can have the torque spec.and the bolt tightening sequence,when tightening the heads back down,and the right tools for the job if not already have?and if you have a v6 or v8 will be taking every thing off, down to the block,so basically the top half of the motor.lots of work and time.but if you have the time will save you a few hundred bucks doing it yourself,have done plenty in my day,
Are headbolts necessary to replace when replacing a head gasket?
Im replacing a blown head gasket on 96 chevrolet 1500....Advance only sells kits with the Head gasket and the head bolts seperate..do i need to replace the head bolts?Is there anything else i should replace while changing a head gasket besides the 2 head gaskets themselves?anything that i might have to replace later thats easier now such as the valve cover gasket?something that might go bad ina few months or need replacement...|||Yes i put new head bolts in just about everything these days. These new cars use stretch to yield head bolts. Once stretched junk! The only other thing i would put on for now besides all the gakets, yes all of them you took off replace. The water pump i would put on just cuz your there. It is inexpensive.|||absolutely. why risk the job for the smaller expense of the bolts?|||typically speaking you would need the intake gasket as well if doing the head gaskets. also you can ask the guy at the parts store to look if the head bolts are torque to yeald if so then replacement is a must.|||Do replace the bolts so you can torque them properly as they stretch after use. You should make sure to take the heads to the machine shop to be sure they%26#039;re flat or have no cracks or need surfacing.|||COMMON RULE OF THUMB IS DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME,SO YES, REPLACE THEM WITH GRADE 8 BOLTS ONLY.|||Yes they probably got to hot.|||No
Changing Harley head gasket?
What should I use to clean the head flange surfaces before installing new gasket? Thanks, Chris|||I normally use a razor blade scraper at first, to get the big stuff off and then scotch brite scrub pads witch come in different abrasive levels.
How do i change a head gasket on a 1991 Audi 90?
Hi i%26#039;m looking for a guide on how to change the head gasket on my 1991 Audi 90 sport 2.3L 5 cyl and also looking for other peoples personal exp, info on parts ect.
Thanks and all help is greatly appreciated|||this is a very involved process that takes both time and tools to perform, if you havent done one before on any car i would take to a mechanic. if ya have then i would try a foreighn auto parts store as they will have a guide on repairing your car|||To many steps to list here. Not to mention that their are other factors that we can not predict. most auto parts stores should have a book on that car that will give you a step by step. Cost is about 25 bucks. Whats 25 bucks when your saving about 500 bucks to have a mechanic do the job for you?|||if you dont have the mechanic skills of a seasoned mechanic you shouldn%26#039;t try it. you have the wiring harness, timing, if its overhead cam you have to time the cam. the fuel injection sys may be tricky. a good book will give you a lot of help but the ones you buy in parts stores sometimes will have the wrong inf in them. go to a shop and see if you can look in there books and advice before you tackle this job. good luck
Thanks and all help is greatly appreciated|||this is a very involved process that takes both time and tools to perform, if you havent done one before on any car i would take to a mechanic. if ya have then i would try a foreighn auto parts store as they will have a guide on repairing your car|||To many steps to list here. Not to mention that their are other factors that we can not predict. most auto parts stores should have a book on that car that will give you a step by step. Cost is about 25 bucks. Whats 25 bucks when your saving about 500 bucks to have a mechanic do the job for you?|||if you dont have the mechanic skills of a seasoned mechanic you shouldn%26#039;t try it. you have the wiring harness, timing, if its overhead cam you have to time the cam. the fuel injection sys may be tricky. a good book will give you a lot of help but the ones you buy in parts stores sometimes will have the wrong inf in them. go to a shop and see if you can look in there books and advice before you tackle this job. good luck
How to change a head gasket on a honda civic?
Does anyone know a website that shows a diagram or explaination of how to change a head gasket on a 94 honda civic cx|||try alldata or mitchell on demand dot coms.
How do you change a head gasket in an 89 Honda Accord LXi? Also how do you change the thermostat on this car?
Can you change the Head Gasket by yourself or is it a complicated job for the mechanic only? Where is it located on a 89 Accord engine, and what tools would i need if i am doing it by myself?
Also, is the thermostat easy to replace on this car? If so, is it easily accessible within the engine? Where is it located, and what tools do i need for the job?|||Well I will try to answer the thermostat part. Simply follow the large hose out of the top of the radiator until you get to the engine. There will be a clamp holding the hose onto a metal piece that has two bolts. Remove the clamp and the bolts. The thermostat is underneath and should be easily removed and replaced. Some vehicles have a gasket that is replaced at same time, and should come with the replacement thermostat. Simply reverse the process to install and refill any lost anti-freeze with standard 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water. IF you don%26#039;t know where the radiator is, this repair is best left to a mechanic.
Unless you have a torque wrench, I would leave the head gasket to a mechanic.
Edit- This is far from a fatal flaw in the car as stated above, have it fixed instead of going into debt|||Chiltons.com or autoplus (maybe autopluszone.com) has detailed instructions with photos on how to do many repairs/replacements.|||Although a used honda is still a reliable car, its a waste of time to fix this one. You%26#039;ll be constantly making small adjustments. Get a new used car something from this decade. Go to drivetime if you cant afford financing|||My first car was a white 89 Honda Accord LXi!! I absolutely loved that girl. My head gaskets blew, and I wound up having to get a whole new engine. I got a used one with low milage, and never had another problem with the engine again. Thats all I know though - I left it for the mechanic to handle. And it wasnt too pricey if I remember correctly. I was only 17 and paid cash to fix it.
I never had problems with my thermostat tho, so I can%26#039;t help ya there.|||IF your vehicle is blowing blue, or white smoke and gets sluguis when you bottom out the gas peddal is your head gasket. To do this you need torque Wrench, the engine manual, and about 2 days(since you are a rookie). Ok your head gasket is located between the engine Header and engine you take both of them a part the gasket is between them. The thermostat is located sowhere between your water pump and the cooling hose line should only take you about 1/2 hour to change.
Also, is the thermostat easy to replace on this car? If so, is it easily accessible within the engine? Where is it located, and what tools do i need for the job?|||Well I will try to answer the thermostat part. Simply follow the large hose out of the top of the radiator until you get to the engine. There will be a clamp holding the hose onto a metal piece that has two bolts. Remove the clamp and the bolts. The thermostat is underneath and should be easily removed and replaced. Some vehicles have a gasket that is replaced at same time, and should come with the replacement thermostat. Simply reverse the process to install and refill any lost anti-freeze with standard 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water. IF you don%26#039;t know where the radiator is, this repair is best left to a mechanic.
Unless you have a torque wrench, I would leave the head gasket to a mechanic.
Edit- This is far from a fatal flaw in the car as stated above, have it fixed instead of going into debt|||Chiltons.com or autoplus (maybe autopluszone.com) has detailed instructions with photos on how to do many repairs/replacements.|||Although a used honda is still a reliable car, its a waste of time to fix this one. You%26#039;ll be constantly making small adjustments. Get a new used car something from this decade. Go to drivetime if you cant afford financing|||My first car was a white 89 Honda Accord LXi!! I absolutely loved that girl. My head gaskets blew, and I wound up having to get a whole new engine. I got a used one with low milage, and never had another problem with the engine again. Thats all I know though - I left it for the mechanic to handle. And it wasnt too pricey if I remember correctly. I was only 17 and paid cash to fix it.
I never had problems with my thermostat tho, so I can%26#039;t help ya there.|||IF your vehicle is blowing blue, or white smoke and gets sluguis when you bottom out the gas peddal is your head gasket. To do this you need torque Wrench, the engine manual, and about 2 days(since you are a rookie). Ok your head gasket is located between the engine Header and engine you take both of them a part the gasket is between them. The thermostat is located sowhere between your water pump and the cooling hose line should only take you about 1/2 hour to change.
How to change a head gasket on a 1994 chevy k1500 ?
If possible, I need step by step instructions on how to change a head gasket on my husband%26#039;s truck. Please, if your advice is %26quot;take it to a mechanic%26quot; or %26quot;buy a manual,%26quot; don%26#039;t answer.|||Thorough step-by-step procedures with pictures can be found here;
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090鈥?/a>
Click on pictures to enlarge, and links in box to right for procedures on Intake Manifold and such.|||Actually a manual will help a lot, but anyway (assuming this is a 350 5.7 tbi) you need to remove the intake manifold, to do this remove the throttle body unit then the distributor (remember to mark it for timing) then undo all the bolts on the manifold and remove. Then take off the valve cover, then loosen all the rocker arms once those are loose remove the head bolts then pop off the head. When you put it back together the timing on that side of the engine will be off and you will need to adjust the rocker arm bolts with it running, do that once you put the intake and tbi unit back on and everything else all back together. Thats about all i can think of but go to autozone or somthing and get a good repair manual it will have step by step instructions and all the torque specs..|||1. Drain the coolant
2. Remove the air filter ducting
3. Disconnect all vacuum/fuel hoses %26amp; mark them with masking tape
4. Heat the bolts that hold the header pipe to the exhaust manifold %26amp; remove
5. Remove the exhaust manifold from the head
6. Remove the valve covers
7. Loosen all rocker arms
8. Drill (8) 鈪?quot; holes in a piece of 2X4. Mark then 1-4 I/E [intake/ exhaust] so you do not mix up the push rods once they are removed.
9. Remove the push rods %26amp; place them in the corresponding holes in the 2X4
10. Remove the distributor cap %26amp; wires. Turn engine to TDC; rotor facing #1 spark plug lead
11. Remove the distributor
12. Remove all accessories from the front of the engine such as A/C Alternator, ect
13. Remove all the bolts from the intake manifold %26amp; remove
14. Remove the bolts from the corresponding head
15. Remove the head
禄禄禄|||Put the k1500 into a place where you have good light and a good place to work. Don%26#039;t try to do it out here it can get rained on etc.
Look at the engine. Notice there is a lot of stuff in the way of taking the heads off.
Drain the cooling system, and save the coolant in bottles so you can pour it back into the engine
Disconnect the battery and hook it up to a %26quot;float%26quot; charger.
Start at the left rear of the top of the engine and remove and disconnect everything that is in the way of the heads.
Mark everything you take off with a sharpie (permenant balck majic marker) as you take them apart so you can get them back together right. I use adhesive lable tags masking tape is also ok. the long narrow white ones work good. Also get some zip seal sandwich bags and put the nuts and bolts for each thing that comes off in a nice neat bag and label it as to what it was for.
Work your way around the engine to the right.
When everything is our of the way and disconnected take off the valve covers.
Manually crank the engine around until it is at TDC on #1 Cylinder on the firing phnase. This will allow getting the distributor back in the fight place. Mark where the distributor rotor is and remove the distributor. It should be pointing to the #1 plug wire. Take all the plug wires off the plugs and keep the wires all together with the cap.
Next the intake manifold comes off bag the bolts and lable them what they were from.
Cover the area where the intake manifold was with clean cloths to protect the engine from getting any foreign material down there.
Remove the pushrods (label each one so you can put them back exactly where you took them out so you can get them back exactly where each one was. An old cardboard box with holes punched in the flaps makes a good/cheap way to keep them in order (the how is up to you). The cardboard box can also be used to keep the bolt bags and parts together.
Disconnect the exhaust manifold from the exhaust pipes. The nuts will likely be very tight and may strip if you don%26#039;t use penetrating oil or heat to break the rust.
Back off each of the cap screws that hold the heads on one turn and then crank over the engine with the starter (you must reconnect the battery to do this and disconnect it after you do this step.). This should pop the heads loose from the block so you won%26#039;t have to pry it/them off.
Finish taking the head cap screws off and remove the heads
Take the heads to a machine shop to pressure test them for cracks and for flatness of surface. I would recommend having them do a valve job on the heads while they have them if you can afford it.
Clean the surface of the block where the head seals of all crud and old gasket material. Acquire a new gasket set called a %26quot;head set%26quot; for your engine by VIN of the truck if it is the stock engine if it is not the stock engine id the engine
Always use the best grade gasket set like the Fel Pro to reinstall. Get the head gasket type which is laminated.
Put everything back on the engine in the reverse order you took it off. Putting the heads back on requires the surfaces to be completely clean of all dirt and crud.
Vacuum all the dirt and crud that may have gotten into the pistons.
You will have to get the manual to get the torque specifications for the proper torque setting for all the bolts that hold everything together. You can probaably check one out of your local library to keep the costs down. The pattern and torque of the bolts is crucial.
Get a good quality torque wrench (Craftsman for example) to set these it%26#039;s the only way it can be done right. And with this stuff it is either do it right or don%26#039;t do it.
Once your have the heads on and torqued up you can put the push rods back into the engine. Make sure they are in the little sockets in the top of the lifters-make sure you get each one back where it came out. They each have a wear in pattern that is matched to where ther were. If you put them in the wrong spots there may be premature failure of the push rod or rocker arms.
Take the cloth out of the valley area below where the intake manifold goes, and make sure no dirt has gotten in there. If any has it must be removed. A Vacuum wand works good or a magnet for nuts and bolts.
Put on the intake manifold and make sure the little end gaskets are in the proper place or the engine will leak oil there.
Torque up the intake gasket with the proper torque and pattern by the manual.
Manually turn the engine back to TDC on the #1 cylinder at firing phase. Reinstall the distributor.
reconnect the exhaust manifolds to the exhaust pipes. Use new nuts and hightemperature anti seize compound and it will be easier next time to take them off.
reconnect all the stuff you disconnected around the engine from your tags and the bagged bolts from right to left.in an orderly manner to no miss anything making sure you get it all back together by the numbers or letters.
When everything is back together put the coolant back into the engine and check for leaks.
Reconnect the battery to the cables,
Check the oil level
Spray a very small burst of starting fulid into the air intake of the engine.
Start the engine; It should start just fine.
Do a normal lube change within the first 100 miles after you finish to get ride of any crud that fell into the engine..
Good luck|||you will need the manual if for nothing else for the toque sequence of the head bolts and what to torque them down at the same with the intake and exhaust manifolds|||if you are that stuburn, that is fine but allot of useful information is found in that book like the torque specification and order along with all of the little steps to get the job done correctly the first time. i haver been working on cars for 25 years and i believe that the book should be looked at like the mechanics bible.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090鈥?/a>
Click on pictures to enlarge, and links in box to right for procedures on Intake Manifold and such.|||Actually a manual will help a lot, but anyway (assuming this is a 350 5.7 tbi) you need to remove the intake manifold, to do this remove the throttle body unit then the distributor (remember to mark it for timing) then undo all the bolts on the manifold and remove. Then take off the valve cover, then loosen all the rocker arms once those are loose remove the head bolts then pop off the head. When you put it back together the timing on that side of the engine will be off and you will need to adjust the rocker arm bolts with it running, do that once you put the intake and tbi unit back on and everything else all back together. Thats about all i can think of but go to autozone or somthing and get a good repair manual it will have step by step instructions and all the torque specs..|||1. Drain the coolant
2. Remove the air filter ducting
3. Disconnect all vacuum/fuel hoses %26amp; mark them with masking tape
4. Heat the bolts that hold the header pipe to the exhaust manifold %26amp; remove
5. Remove the exhaust manifold from the head
6. Remove the valve covers
7. Loosen all rocker arms
8. Drill (8) 鈪?quot; holes in a piece of 2X4. Mark then 1-4 I/E [intake/ exhaust] so you do not mix up the push rods once they are removed.
9. Remove the push rods %26amp; place them in the corresponding holes in the 2X4
10. Remove the distributor cap %26amp; wires. Turn engine to TDC; rotor facing #1 spark plug lead
11. Remove the distributor
12. Remove all accessories from the front of the engine such as A/C Alternator, ect
13. Remove all the bolts from the intake manifold %26amp; remove
14. Remove the bolts from the corresponding head
15. Remove the head
禄禄禄|||Put the k1500 into a place where you have good light and a good place to work. Don%26#039;t try to do it out here it can get rained on etc.
Look at the engine. Notice there is a lot of stuff in the way of taking the heads off.
Drain the cooling system, and save the coolant in bottles so you can pour it back into the engine
Disconnect the battery and hook it up to a %26quot;float%26quot; charger.
Start at the left rear of the top of the engine and remove and disconnect everything that is in the way of the heads.
Mark everything you take off with a sharpie (permenant balck majic marker) as you take them apart so you can get them back together right. I use adhesive lable tags masking tape is also ok. the long narrow white ones work good. Also get some zip seal sandwich bags and put the nuts and bolts for each thing that comes off in a nice neat bag and label it as to what it was for.
Work your way around the engine to the right.
When everything is our of the way and disconnected take off the valve covers.
Manually crank the engine around until it is at TDC on #1 Cylinder on the firing phnase. This will allow getting the distributor back in the fight place. Mark where the distributor rotor is and remove the distributor. It should be pointing to the #1 plug wire. Take all the plug wires off the plugs and keep the wires all together with the cap.
Next the intake manifold comes off bag the bolts and lable them what they were from.
Cover the area where the intake manifold was with clean cloths to protect the engine from getting any foreign material down there.
Remove the pushrods (label each one so you can put them back exactly where you took them out so you can get them back exactly where each one was. An old cardboard box with holes punched in the flaps makes a good/cheap way to keep them in order (the how is up to you). The cardboard box can also be used to keep the bolt bags and parts together.
Disconnect the exhaust manifold from the exhaust pipes. The nuts will likely be very tight and may strip if you don%26#039;t use penetrating oil or heat to break the rust.
Back off each of the cap screws that hold the heads on one turn and then crank over the engine with the starter (you must reconnect the battery to do this and disconnect it after you do this step.). This should pop the heads loose from the block so you won%26#039;t have to pry it/them off.
Finish taking the head cap screws off and remove the heads
Take the heads to a machine shop to pressure test them for cracks and for flatness of surface. I would recommend having them do a valve job on the heads while they have them if you can afford it.
Clean the surface of the block where the head seals of all crud and old gasket material. Acquire a new gasket set called a %26quot;head set%26quot; for your engine by VIN of the truck if it is the stock engine if it is not the stock engine id the engine
Always use the best grade gasket set like the Fel Pro to reinstall. Get the head gasket type which is laminated.
Put everything back on the engine in the reverse order you took it off. Putting the heads back on requires the surfaces to be completely clean of all dirt and crud.
Vacuum all the dirt and crud that may have gotten into the pistons.
You will have to get the manual to get the torque specifications for the proper torque setting for all the bolts that hold everything together. You can probaably check one out of your local library to keep the costs down. The pattern and torque of the bolts is crucial.
Get a good quality torque wrench (Craftsman for example) to set these it%26#039;s the only way it can be done right. And with this stuff it is either do it right or don%26#039;t do it.
Once your have the heads on and torqued up you can put the push rods back into the engine. Make sure they are in the little sockets in the top of the lifters-make sure you get each one back where it came out. They each have a wear in pattern that is matched to where ther were. If you put them in the wrong spots there may be premature failure of the push rod or rocker arms.
Take the cloth out of the valley area below where the intake manifold goes, and make sure no dirt has gotten in there. If any has it must be removed. A Vacuum wand works good or a magnet for nuts and bolts.
Put on the intake manifold and make sure the little end gaskets are in the proper place or the engine will leak oil there.
Torque up the intake gasket with the proper torque and pattern by the manual.
Manually turn the engine back to TDC on the #1 cylinder at firing phase. Reinstall the distributor.
reconnect the exhaust manifolds to the exhaust pipes. Use new nuts and hightemperature anti seize compound and it will be easier next time to take them off.
reconnect all the stuff you disconnected around the engine from your tags and the bagged bolts from right to left.in an orderly manner to no miss anything making sure you get it all back together by the numbers or letters.
When everything is back together put the coolant back into the engine and check for leaks.
Reconnect the battery to the cables,
Check the oil level
Spray a very small burst of starting fulid into the air intake of the engine.
Start the engine; It should start just fine.
Do a normal lube change within the first 100 miles after you finish to get ride of any crud that fell into the engine..
Good luck|||you will need the manual if for nothing else for the toque sequence of the head bolts and what to torque them down at the same with the intake and exhaust manifolds|||if you are that stuburn, that is fine but allot of useful information is found in that book like the torque specification and order along with all of the little steps to get the job done correctly the first time. i haver been working on cars for 25 years and i believe that the book should be looked at like the mechanics bible.
Is changing a blown head gasket hard?
1973 el camino 350 2bbl, would be my first time is it extremely hard to do this job
Have no money to fix need at home work done.|||its not that bad on a chevy small block like that ,the worse part of doing this is removing all the intake and outer parts,once you get to the actual head part it isn%26#039;t that bad,it can be done in about 6 hours with the right tools and work space,id have the head checked for warping before i replaced the gasket though ,it may save you from doing this job twice,if you,ll get a repair manual on small block Chevy%26#039;s it will go a whole lot faster and easier,good luck.|||it depends on how long the gasket has been blown and how bad it was leaking in to it,i have seen them real milky and on some not so bad,i did one last week that was real consistent on a whitish look and it will read way over full on oil when you check it,good luck.
|||Actually, no, but it takes a bit of time and a lot of effort. You have to get the exhaust manifolds loose (old, rusty bolts, some difficult to get to), and you have to pull the intake manifold (which means marking the base of your distributor relative to the manifold and clocking the rotor position - all to ensure you maintain the proper ignition timing). You%26#039;ll need to remove most of the front accessories in order to remove the brackets. The pushrods need to be removed and kept numbered. You will also need to buy a new intake gasket and some sealant. If you don%26#039;t own a torque wrench, now%26#039;s the time to treat yourself to a new piece of equipment.
Are you beginning to get worried about how hard it is? If so, maybe it isn%26#039;t the job for you.
I%26#039;ve pulled cylinder heads on similar vintage small block chevys - once I rebuilt the top end in an apartment complex parking lot. If you are patient and use a digital camera to record step-by-step AND you number, label or bag-and-tag everything, you%26#039;ll be alright.|||not so bad on older cars shouldnt be that hard to do.... you could buy a repair manual or maybe even find one online could try
how to replace head gasket 1973 el camino
how to replace head gasket
repair manual 1973 el camino PDF
removing the top of motor and exhuast from sides of heads should be able to do that on a week end and maybe get parts you need and part of the way back together or have heads check for defects and do it the next weekend ive done it like a hundred times|||Yeah. It%26#039;ll be difficult if you%26#039;ve never done it before. Do you have a decent set of tools and a good repair manual? If not, you%26#039;ll want to get all that stuff first. I%26#039;d pick up the manual first and read the section about engine disassembly and see if it looks like something that you can handle.|||Do not, I repeat do NOT use any kind of block sealer or %26quot;clogging compound%26quot; on your car. Those type of products NEVER work on blown head gaskets ANYWAY. All it will do is ruin your radiator, ruin your heater core, %26amp; plug up who knows WHAT else.
BTW, I%26#039;m wondering why someone, and not just someone, but TWO people gave a low rating to Dodge Man%26#039;s response. His answer was 100% correct.|||it,s not what you call hard. things goes pretty good if you know what to do, have the tools and if nothing messes up like maybe a broken bolt. you still will have to take it to a machine shop to have it shaved because 9 times out of 10 it will be warped. i would say it would be easier on your car then some of these newer cars.|||very hard yes, lots of money but there is a solution: you can buy a special clogging liquid at schucks that can plug it up so that the radiator wont leak.
note: its temporary so you have to keep doing it
cost: $10-20|||Being your first time, depending if you are mechanically inclined or not, would depend on how hard it is.....Don%26#039;t let folks scare ya, go buy you a manual for your vehicle they are round 10 bucks or so. It will have step by step instructions. just make sure you keep up with your nuts and bolts and where they go. Don%26#039;t use any easy way outs...Your first time you will want to follow the book step by step...|||You%26#039;d need a good guide book, a nice set of tools, jackstands, bandaids, a knowledgeable friend and a week or so but most people could probably do it eventually. The biggest problem is the tools to do it safely and correctly aren%26#039;t going to be cheap.|||you need to invite a friend thats done it before
buy him a case of beer evey day he helps you
its something you cant do but i would have someone there with you if its your first time|||That%26#039;s no cake walk; easier on an older vehicle like that, but it would take you awhile
Have no money to fix need at home work done.|||its not that bad on a chevy small block like that ,the worse part of doing this is removing all the intake and outer parts,once you get to the actual head part it isn%26#039;t that bad,it can be done in about 6 hours with the right tools and work space,id have the head checked for warping before i replaced the gasket though ,it may save you from doing this job twice,if you,ll get a repair manual on small block Chevy%26#039;s it will go a whole lot faster and easier,good luck.|||it depends on how long the gasket has been blown and how bad it was leaking in to it,i have seen them real milky and on some not so bad,i did one last week that was real consistent on a whitish look and it will read way over full on oil when you check it,good luck.
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|||Actually, no, but it takes a bit of time and a lot of effort. You have to get the exhaust manifolds loose (old, rusty bolts, some difficult to get to), and you have to pull the intake manifold (which means marking the base of your distributor relative to the manifold and clocking the rotor position - all to ensure you maintain the proper ignition timing). You%26#039;ll need to remove most of the front accessories in order to remove the brackets. The pushrods need to be removed and kept numbered. You will also need to buy a new intake gasket and some sealant. If you don%26#039;t own a torque wrench, now%26#039;s the time to treat yourself to a new piece of equipment.
Are you beginning to get worried about how hard it is? If so, maybe it isn%26#039;t the job for you.
I%26#039;ve pulled cylinder heads on similar vintage small block chevys - once I rebuilt the top end in an apartment complex parking lot. If you are patient and use a digital camera to record step-by-step AND you number, label or bag-and-tag everything, you%26#039;ll be alright.|||not so bad on older cars shouldnt be that hard to do.... you could buy a repair manual or maybe even find one online could try
how to replace head gasket 1973 el camino
how to replace head gasket
repair manual 1973 el camino PDF
removing the top of motor and exhuast from sides of heads should be able to do that on a week end and maybe get parts you need and part of the way back together or have heads check for defects and do it the next weekend ive done it like a hundred times|||Yeah. It%26#039;ll be difficult if you%26#039;ve never done it before. Do you have a decent set of tools and a good repair manual? If not, you%26#039;ll want to get all that stuff first. I%26#039;d pick up the manual first and read the section about engine disassembly and see if it looks like something that you can handle.|||Do not, I repeat do NOT use any kind of block sealer or %26quot;clogging compound%26quot; on your car. Those type of products NEVER work on blown head gaskets ANYWAY. All it will do is ruin your radiator, ruin your heater core, %26amp; plug up who knows WHAT else.
BTW, I%26#039;m wondering why someone, and not just someone, but TWO people gave a low rating to Dodge Man%26#039;s response. His answer was 100% correct.|||it,s not what you call hard. things goes pretty good if you know what to do, have the tools and if nothing messes up like maybe a broken bolt. you still will have to take it to a machine shop to have it shaved because 9 times out of 10 it will be warped. i would say it would be easier on your car then some of these newer cars.|||very hard yes, lots of money but there is a solution: you can buy a special clogging liquid at schucks that can plug it up so that the radiator wont leak.
note: its temporary so you have to keep doing it
cost: $10-20|||Being your first time, depending if you are mechanically inclined or not, would depend on how hard it is.....Don%26#039;t let folks scare ya, go buy you a manual for your vehicle they are round 10 bucks or so. It will have step by step instructions. just make sure you keep up with your nuts and bolts and where they go. Don%26#039;t use any easy way outs...Your first time you will want to follow the book step by step...|||You%26#039;d need a good guide book, a nice set of tools, jackstands, bandaids, a knowledgeable friend and a week or so but most people could probably do it eventually. The biggest problem is the tools to do it safely and correctly aren%26#039;t going to be cheap.|||you need to invite a friend thats done it before
buy him a case of beer evey day he helps you
its something you cant do but i would have someone there with you if its your first time|||That%26#039;s no cake walk; easier on an older vehicle like that, but it would take you awhile
Is it easy to change head gasket on a ford.?
Is it easy to change head gasket on a ford.v6 mustang? Where can i get this part?|||Don%26#039;t try to change the head gasket yourself. The job is not
hard, just labor intensive. You need a few specialty tools.|||You can get the part at any good auto parts store. Is it easy. No it%26#039;s not easy on any car.And it%26#039;s not a job for a beginner to attempt either.|||it was a simple job on a 1947 with a inline 6, but nowdays cars are much more complicated so its best left to the professional mechanics.|||Since you have a rwd car the job will be much, much easier than if you had something like a Taurus or even worse; a Windstar. If you%26#039;re mechanically inclined it%26#039;s pretty doable. If you%26#039;ve never worked on a car before, let a mechanic handle it.|||It%26#039;s a easy job for a wrench head, but unless you have the specialty tools such as torque wrenches , a angle gauge for tightening the bolts, and a good book on how to perform the job, it%26#039;s best left to a pro
hard, just labor intensive. You need a few specialty tools.|||You can get the part at any good auto parts store. Is it easy. No it%26#039;s not easy on any car.And it%26#039;s not a job for a beginner to attempt either.|||it was a simple job on a 1947 with a inline 6, but nowdays cars are much more complicated so its best left to the professional mechanics.|||Since you have a rwd car the job will be much, much easier than if you had something like a Taurus or even worse; a Windstar. If you%26#039;re mechanically inclined it%26#039;s pretty doable. If you%26#039;ve never worked on a car before, let a mechanic handle it.|||It%26#039;s a easy job for a wrench head, but unless you have the specialty tools such as torque wrenches , a angle gauge for tightening the bolts, and a good book on how to perform the job, it%26#039;s best left to a pro
Hi am changing my head gasket on my B16A?
hello, i am changing my head gasket on my 96 jdm b16a %26amp; put some arp head stud%26#039;s, wat are torque spec%26#039;s 4 them thank%26#039;s
the block has a block guard %26amp; a 94 gsr head,... is it 80 or 70 for the arp stud%26#039;s i dont please help|||my answer is try to check it out first on auto repair shop...
the block has a block guard %26amp; a 94 gsr head,... is it 80 or 70 for the arp stud%26#039;s i dont please help|||my answer is try to check it out first on auto repair shop...
By changing the head gasket on my car what does the mechanic look to accomplish besides making $50 bucks...?
And with proper tools how difficult is this to accomplish on lets say a older model jeep cherokee.|||The head gasket keeps in compression, which gives the engine power and torque. It also keeps coolant from leaking into the engine cylinders which causes smoky exhaust. The head gasket also keeps coolant from leaking out of the engine block. It is an important part of your engine.|||$50 bucks is pretty cheap for a head gasket job...|||Stopping your oil from leaking.|||If your head gasket is bad, you could be leaking oil or coolant into the cylinders, or each into the other. This can cause major problems, like new engines and stuff. Your mechanic would make more than $50 on that.
If you have done major engine work before, by all means you can change a head gasket. Get a Chilton%26#039;s or Haynes manual ($10) for the Cherokee, read the procedure to be sure you understand it and have all the parts and tools needed, and get after it. It will be a learning experience, at the least.
If your mechanic has not explained why he wants to change the gasket, ask him. If you are still unsure, take it to a different mechanic for a second opinion. My guess is that it will be the same. It%26#039;s not like he is telling you he needs to change the air in your tires, or anything. Get the work done, and save your engine.|||you will have better compretion and the jeep will run better cheeper to pay 50 that buy all the tools you need|||If your getting a head gasket changed for $50.00, it better be your brother in law doing you a favor. I just finished doing a head gasket job on my 1993 Ford Broncowith a 5.8 V8, (correctly myself) and spent about $500.00 in parts and machine work on the heads alone. No labor. And yes, it is more of a job than shade tree mechanic will want to take on. Hope this helps.|||you get what you pay for. Can`t expect a good job for 50 dollars.What about other gaskets. Checking head for wear and warpage.Is this mechanic certified?. what happens when he puts it all together and you still have the same problem|||Anyone willing to do that for $50 will probably destroy your engine. The head(s) need to be checked for war-page and leaks (cracks). This can only be done at a machine shop (under water and under pressure) Valves, valve guides and valve seats need to be checked. Not a DYI project.
If you have done major engine work before, by all means you can change a head gasket. Get a Chilton%26#039;s or Haynes manual ($10) for the Cherokee, read the procedure to be sure you understand it and have all the parts and tools needed, and get after it. It will be a learning experience, at the least.
If your mechanic has not explained why he wants to change the gasket, ask him. If you are still unsure, take it to a different mechanic for a second opinion. My guess is that it will be the same. It%26#039;s not like he is telling you he needs to change the air in your tires, or anything. Get the work done, and save your engine.|||you will have better compretion and the jeep will run better cheeper to pay 50 that buy all the tools you need|||If your getting a head gasket changed for $50.00, it better be your brother in law doing you a favor. I just finished doing a head gasket job on my 1993 Ford Broncowith a 5.8 V8, (correctly myself) and spent about $500.00 in parts and machine work on the heads alone. No labor. And yes, it is more of a job than shade tree mechanic will want to take on. Hope this helps.|||you get what you pay for. Can`t expect a good job for 50 dollars.What about other gaskets. Checking head for wear and warpage.Is this mechanic certified?. what happens when he puts it all together and you still have the same problem|||Anyone willing to do that for $50 will probably destroy your engine. The head(s) need to be checked for war-page and leaks (cracks). This can only be done at a machine shop (under water and under pressure) Valves, valve guides and valve seats need to be checked. Not a DYI project.
Is it worth changing a head gasket on a x reg 2 ltr sri vectra or get anew engine.....thanks?
gasket 拢20
engine 拢200 ...u tell me?|||Sorry mate but I would get a new engine. Too much p*****ng about.|||Change the head gasket, it will be cheaper than a whole new engine (if you know what your doing)|||Definately head gasket - much quicker %26amp; cheaper!|||new car|||Alloy block on vectras how long has it been blown. They tend to warp a bit and need milling down a couple of thou. But if you got the time have a go.
Engines can be cheap enough. Hunt around.|||It depends really on the rest of the engine i.e. how many miles has it done? Also you need to find out the cause of why it gasket failed in the first place? Water pump failure/ thermostat failure/ temperature sensor failure. I%26#039;d always replace these anyway when the head gasket goes. Then you%26#039;ve got to weigh up the engine you will be replacing it with, if that%26#039;s what you decide. If go for a 2nd hand one, you don%26#039;t know the history of it. Personally if the engine you%26#039;ve got is sound apart from the head I%26#039;d go the whole hog - new gasket, water pump, thermostat and temperature sensor.
From experience vectras are a pain in the a**e for the temperature sensors failing, whch doesn%26#039;t turn on the radiator cooling fan, this in turn usually cooks the head (tip) ;-)|||I%26#039;d change the gasket
and the water pump as suggested above
and get the camshafts checked while you are at it.
It is important to follow instructions after engine work, eg. the garage might need to check the torque on the bolts after a number of miles or change the oil etc.|||wonderweld put it in my mums lucida 2 years ago still running fine!|||Getting the cylinder head reskimmed and replacing the piston rings and head gasket will cost far far less than a new engine.|||new gasket every time and remember get the head skimmed and gas tested ;)|||Well i reckon you wont be buying a new engine,probably a used one which you can get for about拢150,if your going to buy one of these then ring the dealers and make sure you get one you can here running before they rip it out.Personally id go for doing the head gasket,ive just changed a vectra engine and it was a pain especially the wiring harness.After youve had the head crack tested and bought the parts you need there aint going to be much difference in cost.Labour is about the same if you regrind the valves which is always worth doing while its off.Make sure you check the head bolts for length and diameter as they are stretch bolts.Ask a friendly mechanic to look this up in Autodata.Hope this helps.
engine 拢200 ...u tell me?|||Sorry mate but I would get a new engine. Too much p*****ng about.|||Change the head gasket, it will be cheaper than a whole new engine (if you know what your doing)|||Definately head gasket - much quicker %26amp; cheaper!|||new car|||Alloy block on vectras how long has it been blown. They tend to warp a bit and need milling down a couple of thou. But if you got the time have a go.
Engines can be cheap enough. Hunt around.|||It depends really on the rest of the engine i.e. how many miles has it done? Also you need to find out the cause of why it gasket failed in the first place? Water pump failure/ thermostat failure/ temperature sensor failure. I%26#039;d always replace these anyway when the head gasket goes. Then you%26#039;ve got to weigh up the engine you will be replacing it with, if that%26#039;s what you decide. If go for a 2nd hand one, you don%26#039;t know the history of it. Personally if the engine you%26#039;ve got is sound apart from the head I%26#039;d go the whole hog - new gasket, water pump, thermostat and temperature sensor.
From experience vectras are a pain in the a**e for the temperature sensors failing, whch doesn%26#039;t turn on the radiator cooling fan, this in turn usually cooks the head (tip) ;-)|||I%26#039;d change the gasket
and the water pump as suggested above
and get the camshafts checked while you are at it.
It is important to follow instructions after engine work, eg. the garage might need to check the torque on the bolts after a number of miles or change the oil etc.|||wonderweld put it in my mums lucida 2 years ago still running fine!|||Getting the cylinder head reskimmed and replacing the piston rings and head gasket will cost far far less than a new engine.|||new gasket every time and remember get the head skimmed and gas tested ;)|||Well i reckon you wont be buying a new engine,probably a used one which you can get for about拢150,if your going to buy one of these then ring the dealers and make sure you get one you can here running before they rip it out.Personally id go for doing the head gasket,ive just changed a vectra engine and it was a pain especially the wiring harness.After youve had the head crack tested and bought the parts you need there aint going to be much difference in cost.Labour is about the same if you regrind the valves which is always worth doing while its off.Make sure you check the head bolts for length and diameter as they are stretch bolts.Ask a friendly mechanic to look this up in Autodata.Hope this helps.
Changing a head gasket on a pontiac montana?
A co-worker of mine has asked me to give him a hand in changing the head gasket(s) in his 2001 Pontiac Montana. He%26#039;s going to buy the %26quot;Haynes Repair Manual%26quot; and we have access to a fully equiped garage for a weekend.
My question is... how long should it take to repace? Are there any tips or tricks to replacing them? Anything to watch out for?
I%26#039;d rather an answer from someone who%26#039;s done them before on that type of van, amature or professional.|||It can be done in a day and you should also replace the head bolts when you remove the heads because the bolts are torque to yield bolts and can not be re used correctly because they stretch. Also that motor is noted for breaking the intake bolts when you try to remove them so be sure to have a can of PB Blaster at your side to lube every bolt you can see before you try to loosen them. If the motor was overheated you should also have the heads checked for cracks and warp age before putting them back on. It sucks having to send them out to get checked but it can save tons of time and money if there is a problem with the heads and you don%26#039;t go through all the work for nothing. Just remember to keep everything clean and follow the torque specs in the manual and you should be alright. Hope I have been helpful.|||well if you need a manaul and you have to ask then its a good bet its going to take all weekend if not longer
since your have to remove top of motor to get to heads im guessing four days amature or a couple if professional
My question is... how long should it take to repace? Are there any tips or tricks to replacing them? Anything to watch out for?
I%26#039;d rather an answer from someone who%26#039;s done them before on that type of van, amature or professional.|||It can be done in a day and you should also replace the head bolts when you remove the heads because the bolts are torque to yield bolts and can not be re used correctly because they stretch. Also that motor is noted for breaking the intake bolts when you try to remove them so be sure to have a can of PB Blaster at your side to lube every bolt you can see before you try to loosen them. If the motor was overheated you should also have the heads checked for cracks and warp age before putting them back on. It sucks having to send them out to get checked but it can save tons of time and money if there is a problem with the heads and you don%26#039;t go through all the work for nothing. Just remember to keep everything clean and follow the torque specs in the manual and you should be alright. Hope I have been helpful.|||well if you need a manaul and you have to ask then its a good bet its going to take all weekend if not longer
since your have to remove top of motor to get to heads im guessing four days amature or a couple if professional
What's the level of difficulty in changing head gasket on 99 jeep cherokee sport i-6 4.0l?
Relatively easy.The 4 liter is a redesign from the 4.2 liter I6 carbeurated. the 4 liter was slightly down sized to allow for fuel injection. After removal of the air induction system, (easy), the head needs removed, which is located on the top in an I6 engine.Slightly loosen each bolt, don%26#039;t remove a whole bolt before loosening every one. Don%26#039;t remove the bolts in a row, switch around the perimeter to avoid stress cracks. Make sure that all debirs is removed from the head and head mount before applying the new gaasket. I usually use a heat-rated silicone for additional sealant properties. Put all the bolts back in and tighten just like you removed them, i.e. tighten the left side bolt, then a right side, then a top. Good Luck!!|||How mechanically inclined are you?
Changing the head gasket on 3 cyl ford diesel tractor?
i am changing the head gasket on 3 cyl ford diesel tractor.there is no way we can get the block and head decked, and it%26#039;s a little bit rough. what i would like to know is, should i put it on dry or should i use Permatex庐 Copper Spray-A-Gasket庐
Hi-Temp Adhesive Sealant (approved for Cylinder head gaskets, carburetor gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, high temp applications
Temperature Range: -50掳F to 500掳F)
or Permatex庐 Super 300庐 Form-A-Gasket庐 (approved for Valve cover gaskets,compressors,diesel engine heads Temperature Range:-65掳F to 400掳F)
or does anyone have any suggestions
thank you very much.|||Clean up both surfaces as best that you can (preferably with a rotating Scotch disk) and install the gasket without any other sealant. 500 F degrees isn%26#039;t sufficient specification for a head gasket regardless of what the tube or spray says. Be sure to torque it to specks in the sequence shown in the manual. |||just use the gaskets them selves, any spray can distort the sealing surface creating a leak. go dry for the head gasket but the others, i would go dry on those unless the book called for otherwise.|||Make sure the head isn%26#039;t warped. That is what usually causes the head gasket to blow. I wouldn%26#039;t put anything on the gasket.
Hi-Temp Adhesive Sealant (approved for Cylinder head gaskets, carburetor gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, high temp applications
Temperature Range: -50掳F to 500掳F)
or Permatex庐 Super 300庐 Form-A-Gasket庐 (approved for Valve cover gaskets,compressors,diesel engine heads Temperature Range:-65掳F to 400掳F)
or does anyone have any suggestions
thank you very much.|||Clean up both surfaces as best that you can (preferably with a rotating Scotch disk) and install the gasket without any other sealant. 500 F degrees isn%26#039;t sufficient specification for a head gasket regardless of what the tube or spray says. Be sure to torque it to specks in the sequence shown in the manual. |||just use the gaskets them selves, any spray can distort the sealing surface creating a leak. go dry for the head gasket but the others, i would go dry on those unless the book called for otherwise.|||Make sure the head isn%26#039;t warped. That is what usually causes the head gasket to blow. I wouldn%26#039;t put anything on the gasket.
I am changing the head gasket on my 94 civic what should i buy when changing it?
like antifreeze thermostats and more|||You should get new timing belt, timing belf tensior, H2O pump, two gallon of anti-freeze, Thermstat, all the gastkets Four quarts of Mobil 1 5w30oil and Mobil 1 oil filter.|||In addition to what you mentioned, you%26#039;ll need oil and filter possibly a lower radiator hose(since you%26#039;re down there and most importantly the %26quot;head gasket set%26quot; for your engine size. Copy all the info from your emissions sticker relating to the engine size and copy your VIN # just in case the auto parts house has any doubt.|||Make sure you get a kit that includes new head bolts since the ones you pull out are stretched and are no longer good. You should probably replace the timing belt and water pump since you are this far into the project like I did.
If i change my cylinder head off my 92 prelude do i have to change the head gasket as well?
i have a 92 prelude h23 and im thinking of buying a h23 cylinder head to replace my broken one. if i do this do i have to replace my head gasket even tho its not blown?
btw my timing belt went out thats why im changing the head.|||Both previous answers are good. I would buy the Haynes manual which will save you grief in that it will detail the whole procedure. Tightening down method and sequence is often critical if you don%26#039;t want to end up with a new blown head gasket.|||Yes you need a new head gasket. You only use them once................md|||Yes, you always change the head gasket when you remove the cylinder head.
Also, with some vehicles the cylinder head bolts must be replaced each time they are removed. Not certain if this is a requirement but I would find out. Ask your automotive parts store. They would know.|||yes, replace the head gasket.
btw my timing belt went out thats why im changing the head.|||Both previous answers are good. I would buy the Haynes manual which will save you grief in that it will detail the whole procedure. Tightening down method and sequence is often critical if you don%26#039;t want to end up with a new blown head gasket.|||Yes you need a new head gasket. You only use them once................md|||Yes, you always change the head gasket when you remove the cylinder head.
Also, with some vehicles the cylinder head bolts must be replaced each time they are removed. Not certain if this is a requirement but I would find out. Ask your automotive parts store. They would know.|||yes, replace the head gasket.
Where would i find a step by step guide for changing head gaskets on a Ford 302 V8?
I need to replace the head gaskets on an old F-150 that I just bougt and wondering if any one can help me. I have never done this before.|||Parts stores carry Chilton or Haynes service manuals....some libraries have them too. Eautorepair.net or Alldata.com have online access to factory manuals for a small fee.|||Chiltons, Haynes, Factory Service manuals, or just try a google search. This is a popular race engine so the information shouldn%26#039;t be that hard to find.|||In a model specific repair manual available at most auto parts stores.
Changing head gasket 2001 pontiac montana?
What is it that you want to know about the head gasket. If you didn%26#039;t run it to hot to warp the head ,they can replace the head gasket and it should be good to go.|||have you tried a chemical sealant? if a minor leak there are sealants sold to address this problem. this will work half the time. if repair is needed it is quite difficult and may require a professional|||what about changing the head gasket? what do you want to know?
Do you have to change the valve cover gasket and the head gasket at the same time?
I bought the valve cover gasket and plan on changing it today. Next week I plan on changing the head gasket. Should it be done at the same time? I heard everytime that you take the valve cover off you have to change the valve cover gasket. Is this true?
Its a 1996 toyota corolla 1.8L if that matters|||What is wrong with your head gasket??? Is the engine overheating or blowing smoke of some kind?? Is this just an oil leak, here??? The valve cover gasket is done to stop external oil leaks, usually. Sometimes, you can just tighten the bolts and nuts down a little.|||Depending on the material..If it is cork..you should change it every time..if it is neopreme..it can be reused...but what I don%26#039;t understand is why do them seperatly..you have to take the valve cover off to replace the head gasket.|||you don,t have to keep changing the valve pan gasket if you don,t tear it by taking it off. but if your going to change the head gasket then do it first then the valve pan gasket.|||IF YOU ARE REPLACING HEAD GASKET, ALWAYS REPLACE VALVE COVER GASKET TOO,, BEST THING TO DO, IN THE LONG RUN,,,,
Its a 1996 toyota corolla 1.8L if that matters|||What is wrong with your head gasket??? Is the engine overheating or blowing smoke of some kind?? Is this just an oil leak, here??? The valve cover gasket is done to stop external oil leaks, usually. Sometimes, you can just tighten the bolts and nuts down a little.|||Depending on the material..If it is cork..you should change it every time..if it is neopreme..it can be reused...but what I don%26#039;t understand is why do them seperatly..you have to take the valve cover off to replace the head gasket.|||you don,t have to keep changing the valve pan gasket if you don,t tear it by taking it off. but if your going to change the head gasket then do it first then the valve pan gasket.|||IF YOU ARE REPLACING HEAD GASKET, ALWAYS REPLACE VALVE COVER GASKET TOO,, BEST THING TO DO, IN THE LONG RUN,,,,
Does a 3.0 ford motor need to be torqued when changing head gasket?
Yes! Look up the torque rating and the same place will show you the sequence but generally start in the middle and work out on both sides.
What do I need to change a head gasket?
Hello everyone, I am going to be changing the head gaskets in my 98 Ford Crown Victoria 4.6L V-8. Besides all the tools I%26#039;ll need and of course the head gasket, what parts and supplies will I need to get the job done without having to leave the house to grab a forgotten part. Also what should I take advantage of while I have the engine apart as in like replacing other parts or beefing up anything or any other type of preventative maintenance.|||You should have a torque wrench and a manual to tell you what the torque sequence and torque specifications are for torquing the head down. Also some manufacturers recommend replacing the head bolts if their torque to yield bolts. A flat edge should be used to check for warpage. Other stuff to consider replacing when doing the job is the valve cover gaskets, thermostat, spark plugs, sparkplug wires,carb.gasket or fuel injector o-rings. As far as using Per-ma Tex I%26#039;d check to make sure that%26#039;s advised because I can%26#039;t say I remember using any silicone on the heat gasket itself, however some do call for using sealant on the head bolts if they happen to pass through any coolant passages. Good luck and hope this helps.|||Changing Head Gaskets is not real difficult, just time consuming. You have to remove the air filter housing, pull the spark plug wires and remove any parts that hang over the heads.
Tools required would be:
Socket set, with socket wrench and extension.
Torque wrench to tighten the head bolts after changing the gaskets...proper torque is Essential !!
Diagram showing bolt tightening order.
Gasket sealer to hold gasket in place before re-tightening.
Since your heads are off, resurfacing them to flat is necessary. Take to a Shop for this ($100.00+-).
Wouldn%26#039;t hurt to clean the valve adjusters, re-gap them and check for can shaft wear.
Maybe even have the valves re-surfaced at the shop as well ($100.00+-) since they%26#039;re already off.
Takes about 2-3 hours to remove, and a good 3 hours to reassemble, clean engine area and check the other components like wiring harnesses and alternator tension.
Then, treat yourself to an In %26#039;n Out Burger.....job well done !!!!|||have a tube of permatex no. 2 gasket sealer to put on the flat surface of the block AND the bottom surface of the gasket so that when seated, that part will form a good seal.
You are now going to have to put the permatex no. 2 gasket sealer on the TOP of the gasket and the bottom of the head so there is a good seal there.
If you have all the tools then it%26#039;s really a matter of doing the steps in the right order.
Tools required would be:
Socket set, with socket wrench and extension.
Torque wrench to tighten the head bolts after changing the gaskets...proper torque is Essential !!
Diagram showing bolt tightening order.
Gasket sealer to hold gasket in place before re-tightening.
Since your heads are off, resurfacing them to flat is necessary. Take to a Shop for this ($100.00+-).
Wouldn%26#039;t hurt to clean the valve adjusters, re-gap them and check for can shaft wear.
Maybe even have the valves re-surfaced at the shop as well ($100.00+-) since they%26#039;re already off.
Takes about 2-3 hours to remove, and a good 3 hours to reassemble, clean engine area and check the other components like wiring harnesses and alternator tension.
Then, treat yourself to an In %26#039;n Out Burger.....job well done !!!!|||have a tube of permatex no. 2 gasket sealer to put on the flat surface of the block AND the bottom surface of the gasket so that when seated, that part will form a good seal.
You are now going to have to put the permatex no. 2 gasket sealer on the TOP of the gasket and the bottom of the head so there is a good seal there.
If you have all the tools then it%26#039;s really a matter of doing the steps in the right order.
Is it better to change a head gasket or change the whole engine block ?
I own a Pontiac Montana with a 3.4 litre engine. The head gasket is leaking.I%26#039;m told that to change the engine block would be a better solution than just having the head gasket changed. I just want to keep the car a few more years ! Any thoughts or comments please...This is very confusing!
Thanx|||it depends. when a head gasket leaks, there is a possibility that antifreeze can escape into other regions of the motor (i.e. cam, crank) the last thing that you want is antifreeze inside of your block... antifreeze can destroy the bottom end of a motor, particularly rod bearings which can lead to a rod knock, and possibly a thrown rod...
i say, change the oil, see if there is any antifreeze in it, ( you can tell for certian, because antifreeze will seperate from oil) if not, you can try just replacing the head gasket.
i honestly think you%26#039;re better off trying to find a motor out of a junkyard or something....|||depends on the mileage and the maintenance done on the engine. if you have keep up with oil changes and regular maintenance than i would say just the head gasket but if you haven%26#039;t, then when it gets taken apart, all the sludge in there can come loose and destroy the engine anyway.|||no, you just replace the head gasket
if there is no internal engine damage you dont rebuild the engine, and changing the actual block isnt a good idea|||You don%26#039;t need to change the engine for a blown head gasket..BUT be sure that if you have the head gasket changed that you also make sure that the head gets resurfaced to be sure that the head didn%26#039;t get warped. Most heads are made out of aluminum these days and when they get over heated they tend to warp and need to be flattened out ( machined ) so that the head casket can seal between the head and block..Its kinda a big job so be prepared to spend some cash ..$1000-$1500 maybe..good luck..|||How much money you got??
Thanx|||it depends. when a head gasket leaks, there is a possibility that antifreeze can escape into other regions of the motor (i.e. cam, crank) the last thing that you want is antifreeze inside of your block... antifreeze can destroy the bottom end of a motor, particularly rod bearings which can lead to a rod knock, and possibly a thrown rod...
i say, change the oil, see if there is any antifreeze in it, ( you can tell for certian, because antifreeze will seperate from oil) if not, you can try just replacing the head gasket.
i honestly think you%26#039;re better off trying to find a motor out of a junkyard or something....|||depends on the mileage and the maintenance done on the engine. if you have keep up with oil changes and regular maintenance than i would say just the head gasket but if you haven%26#039;t, then when it gets taken apart, all the sludge in there can come loose and destroy the engine anyway.|||no, you just replace the head gasket
if there is no internal engine damage you dont rebuild the engine, and changing the actual block isnt a good idea|||You don%26#039;t need to change the engine for a blown head gasket..BUT be sure that if you have the head gasket changed that you also make sure that the head gets resurfaced to be sure that the head didn%26#039;t get warped. Most heads are made out of aluminum these days and when they get over heated they tend to warp and need to be flattened out ( machined ) so that the head casket can seal between the head and block..Its kinda a big job so be prepared to spend some cash ..$1000-$1500 maybe..good luck..|||How much money you got??
Changing head gasket in 1987 camaro?
is it easier to pull engine?|||maybe you don%26#039;t have to even pick up a wrench
Here is how:
drain all the coolant out
rinse with lots of water...you have to get All the antifreeze out
fill almost full with CLEAN water
go to a drug store and get SODIUM SILICATE solution ( it comes in a mayonaise size jar, it is thick and clear looking ~$20)
pour this in the radiator and run the engine for awhile....how long?.that depends.....1 hour should do it
Then drain it and add water and antifreeze
This works 90% of the time and will last 2 or more years
I know this for a FACT!....my GTA needed this done and I have performed this repair dozens of times|||I would say no. You can even get it done without pulling the intake or distributor, just the exhaust and head stuff. Of course, a prettier job should result from pulling the engine. I guess I am assuming a v-8 engine or a 4.3 six. The 2.8 six is a problem I don%26#039;t want to address.|||well no not when you just have to remove intake and heads why remove motor and then remove intake and heads too would be twice same much work|||no. you should have plenty of room to work. pay close attention to the intake manifold when you take it apart, to make sure it wasn%26#039;t destroyed (severe pitting and corrosion) by never changing the coolant. and have heads checked by machine shop for cracks and flatness.
Here is how:
drain all the coolant out
rinse with lots of water...you have to get All the antifreeze out
fill almost full with CLEAN water
go to a drug store and get SODIUM SILICATE solution ( it comes in a mayonaise size jar, it is thick and clear looking ~$20)
pour this in the radiator and run the engine for awhile....how long?.that depends.....1 hour should do it
Then drain it and add water and antifreeze
This works 90% of the time and will last 2 or more years
I know this for a FACT!....my GTA needed this done and I have performed this repair dozens of times|||I would say no. You can even get it done without pulling the intake or distributor, just the exhaust and head stuff. Of course, a prettier job should result from pulling the engine. I guess I am assuming a v-8 engine or a 4.3 six. The 2.8 six is a problem I don%26#039;t want to address.|||well no not when you just have to remove intake and heads why remove motor and then remove intake and heads too would be twice same much work|||no. you should have plenty of room to work. pay close attention to the intake manifold when you take it apart, to make sure it wasn%26#039;t destroyed (severe pitting and corrosion) by never changing the coolant. and have heads checked by machine shop for cracks and flatness.
Changing head gasket on 97 grand am trying to take head off to get to gasket but head does not want to come of?
please help|||I gotta go with Garret on this one,beat the hell out of it with a RUBBER hammer.If you don%26#039;t have one you can use a regular hammer and a block of wood Gently with those tools.Don%26#039;t pry or heat aluminum|||Assuming you checked and double checked that you have every bolt out of the valve cover and the cylinder head, including the head bolts, then the gasket is simply stuck. get a rubber hammer and give it a few good wacks on the sides. No metal hammers. Remember that its made out of recycled soda cans. (Aluminum) and damages easily. Rubber is ok though.|||Find a safe place for prying and use a long prybar to loosen the head. Remember that the head, which is very heavy, sits on two dowels so you have to pry up.|||The main problem is that it%26#039;s a 97 Grand Am. Ug. Grand Ams are nightmares. If neither of the other suggestions work for you, you may want to try a propane torch to expand the head. Be very careful with the torch. If you don%26#039;t know what you%26#039;re doing, you could really mess yourself or the car up. Don%26#039;t let hold the torch in one place. Move it in large circles to heat up the entire head. It%26#039;s aluminum, so you%26#039;re not going to damage it as long as you don%26#039;t allow one part to heat up too quickly while the rest is cold. Be careful.|||You could use a block of wood and strike it with a small but heavy hammer. Carefully, in several places.
Changing head gasket on 91 chevy cavalier?
Here is a link with instructions and a diagram.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker鈥?/a>|||changing a head gasket is very hard if you have never done it before take it to a shop if it is a vavle gasket just remove the bolts from the top of the vavle body and lift it up|||IF YOU DONT KNOW HOW TO DO IT. DONT BECAUSE YOU WILL NOT DO IT CORRECTLY. NOT TO BE MEAN BUT YOU WILL MESS SOMETHING UP. ITS A VERY DETAILED JOB. IF YOU DONT CLEAN THE BLOCK AND THE HEAD GOOD ENOUGH. YOU LL HAVE MAJOR PROBLEMS WITH LEAKAGE
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker鈥?/a>|||changing a head gasket is very hard if you have never done it before take it to a shop if it is a vavle gasket just remove the bolts from the top of the vavle body and lift it up|||IF YOU DONT KNOW HOW TO DO IT. DONT BECAUSE YOU WILL NOT DO IT CORRECTLY. NOT TO BE MEAN BUT YOU WILL MESS SOMETHING UP. ITS A VERY DETAILED JOB. IF YOU DONT CLEAN THE BLOCK AND THE HEAD GOOD ENOUGH. YOU LL HAVE MAJOR PROBLEMS WITH LEAKAGE
How do i change head gasket on a 90 525i ?
i need to change head gasket on my 90 525i.i have the tools and mechanical ability,don%26#039;t want to buy manual.|||Get a manual from your local library.
Subaru impreza, changing head gasket?
i bought a pre facelift subaru impreza as a project, it has been off the road about a year. but turns over and runs ok. until it blew a hole in the radiator, fitted a new one as i needed to move the car. im 16 and im an aprentice mechanic, and was wondering how easy it is to change the headgasket as its obv blown and pressurising the rad, when i take the top cooling hose off the exhaust gasses come out the hose, so the gasket it obv well n truley gone. is there any other things i should do to insure the car will be reliable once the engine is out? and is it to difficult to take the engine out? i want to up the power in the future but its more of a project car at the mo. im plannin on fitting new gaskets, cam belt and tenioners, and get the heads cleaned and refaced. but was wondering if its a difficult job to do and is there anything i should be aware of? ive change head gaskets on smaller striaght 4 engines like peugeots and fiats, and had no problem. any advice would be great :) thanks|||if your going to pull the motor its not that hard. i can pull out my sti engine in about 3 hours. helps that i have just about every tool known to man.|||If it%26#039;s and N/A Impreza, you don%26#039;t need to pull the motor to do the head gaskets. There is plenty of room to pull the heads with the motor in the car. I%26#039;ve done it. Not that hard really. Buy a shop manual for your car and it should be pretty easy. Now if you are talking about the WRX then yes you should pull the motor.|||I would suggest getting a compression and leakdown test done to ensure the HG Is blown but from the looks of It you have that pretty much figured out.
Obviously the Engine does have to be pulled but It doesn%26#039;t have to be stripped down completely as there Isn%26#039;t much for lines and breathers on the covers, Heads definitely need to be decked along with the Block, Id go with OEM Gaskets when you do put It back together, I%26#039;m running OEM on my 2.5 and running 25 PSI no problem :D Pick up a set of ARP head studs and have at it. It wouldn%26#039;t be a bad time to have the block honed and machined for some 99.5mm pistons as long as you have the funds.
Good luck with the tear down!
Obviously the Engine does have to be pulled but It doesn%26#039;t have to be stripped down completely as there Isn%26#039;t much for lines and breathers on the covers, Heads definitely need to be decked along with the Block, Id go with OEM Gaskets when you do put It back together, I%26#039;m running OEM on my 2.5 and running 25 PSI no problem :D Pick up a set of ARP head studs and have at it. It wouldn%26#039;t be a bad time to have the block honed and machined for some 99.5mm pistons as long as you have the funds.
Good luck with the tear down!
How do I change head gasket on 1989 yamaha 125cc dirt bike?
I just got this dirt bike and the boy changed the head gasket and he ran it and he then noticed it was not running right. So this should mean it is a blown head gasket correct? He thinks he did tighten it up to much when he put it on. SO does this mean if i change it it would be fine? Also does it running rough mean the head gasket is blown?|||Why did he change the head gasket in the first place?
That engine is water cooled - if the head gasket was blown, it would leak coolant out of the cylinder, or the compression of the engine would be blown into the cooling system and blow the coolant out of the radiator cap.
The head gasket is the least of your worries.
Bad gas or incorrect premix ratio.
Dirty air cleaner.
Dirty carb.
Worn out top end (cylinder, piston %26amp; rings).|||man, so many answers to this question.
First, do you have the tools and skill to do the job. Have you ever removed the heads on a bike before. Do you have the equipment to determine if the head is actually warped now or not, and the machinery to fix it if it is? Do you have the shop service manual on the bike so you know what all the correct torque settings are for the head bolts.
Do you know how to set the timing and what the specs should be when you get the heads back on. Do you know how to adjust the valves.
Bottom line, could the problem your having now be the heads? Yes, it could also be any one of a dozen other things as well after having the heads removed. If the guy THINKS he might have over tightened then that tells me he didn%26#039;t use a torque wrench or go by the specs, which means he probably didn%26#039;t go by the specs for anything else.
If this is a bike you really want to ride, take it to a shop and let them figure it out, you can permanently mess it up if you don%26#039;t even have the basics like the shop manual and proper tools, to say nothing of the skills.
That engine is water cooled - if the head gasket was blown, it would leak coolant out of the cylinder, or the compression of the engine would be blown into the cooling system and blow the coolant out of the radiator cap.
The head gasket is the least of your worries.
Bad gas or incorrect premix ratio.
Dirty air cleaner.
Dirty carb.
Worn out top end (cylinder, piston %26amp; rings).|||man, so many answers to this question.
First, do you have the tools and skill to do the job. Have you ever removed the heads on a bike before. Do you have the equipment to determine if the head is actually warped now or not, and the machinery to fix it if it is? Do you have the shop service manual on the bike so you know what all the correct torque settings are for the head bolts.
Do you know how to set the timing and what the specs should be when you get the heads back on. Do you know how to adjust the valves.
Bottom line, could the problem your having now be the heads? Yes, it could also be any one of a dozen other things as well after having the heads removed. If the guy THINKS he might have over tightened then that tells me he didn%26#039;t use a torque wrench or go by the specs, which means he probably didn%26#039;t go by the specs for anything else.
If this is a bike you really want to ride, take it to a shop and let them figure it out, you can permanently mess it up if you don%26#039;t even have the basics like the shop manual and proper tools, to say nothing of the skills.
Do you need to change the head bolts when changing the head gasket on a 1984 ford capri 2.8i ?
if so does anyone know where you can get hold of them?|||The Ford Cologne 2.8 V6 does not use torque to yield head bolts. They can be reused. The head bolt tightening sequence is as follows -
5-1-3-7 Intake side
6-4-2-8 Exhaust side
Final torque is 75 ft.lbs.
Step one - 20 ft.lbs. in sequence
Step two - 40 ft.lbs. in sequence
Step three - 75 ft.lbs. in sequence|||First class answer from Troy, the head also has to be re-torqued after 500 miles, DO NOT neglect that re-torque, I did on a 2.8i Granada a paid the price on a long run. I managed to catch it before any real damage, but it almost cost me the brand new engine I%26#039;d put in a week earlier!
One other thing, you are doing both sides aren%26#039;t you?|||i always change head bolts...other wise known as stretch bolts. They are called this becuase they are designed to stretch when the engine expands with heat. By not replacing then you are risking the some of the bolts breaking next time you need to remove them.|||not sure with the v6 Cologne engine but most head bolts are designed to stretch when torqued down ,cant remember if the v6 has cast iron or ally head as this may make a difference but personally i would change them|||Unless you damage the bolts during removal, they can be reused. Be sure to use a torque wrench when tightening, and tighten them in an alternating sequence to prevent warping.|||it%26#039;s advisable but probably not essential on a car that age parts for ford 2.8 engines are easy to come by but for an essential part like that stick to a ford dealer
5-1-3-7 Intake side
6-4-2-8 Exhaust side
Final torque is 75 ft.lbs.
Step one - 20 ft.lbs. in sequence
Step two - 40 ft.lbs. in sequence
Step three - 75 ft.lbs. in sequence|||First class answer from Troy, the head also has to be re-torqued after 500 miles, DO NOT neglect that re-torque, I did on a 2.8i Granada a paid the price on a long run. I managed to catch it before any real damage, but it almost cost me the brand new engine I%26#039;d put in a week earlier!
One other thing, you are doing both sides aren%26#039;t you?|||i always change head bolts...other wise known as stretch bolts. They are called this becuase they are designed to stretch when the engine expands with heat. By not replacing then you are risking the some of the bolts breaking next time you need to remove them.|||not sure with the v6 Cologne engine but most head bolts are designed to stretch when torqued down ,cant remember if the v6 has cast iron or ally head as this may make a difference but personally i would change them|||Unless you damage the bolts during removal, they can be reused. Be sure to use a torque wrench when tightening, and tighten them in an alternating sequence to prevent warping.|||it%26#039;s advisable but probably not essential on a car that age parts for ford 2.8 engines are easy to come by but for an essential part like that stick to a ford dealer
Changing the head gasket of a 2001 Cadillac Catera?
I have just bought this car 3 weeks ago and maybe it wasn%26#039;t the best deals of all times. I took it today to the mechanic to check for a coolant leak and he called me back with three problems: radiodor needs to be replaced, water pump needs to be replaced and the head gasket is blown.
Water pump ~ $210
Radiator ~ unkown yet (makes me wonder if I could use the sealing stuff you can get at wal-mart.)
Head Gasket ~ $1300 (labor + parts)
This is not cheap - specially for a recent graduate college student.
My questions are:
-- Does that seem to be reasonable prices?
-- How hard is to fix the head gasket?
-- Head gasket problem is a pretty big deal?
-- Anyone wants a Cadillac Catera?
Note that my experience with cars is limited. I should have gotten a degree in mechanical engineering; not electrical. That would have certainly helped. But I am pretty handy and got some common sense for the most part.
Thanks in advance!|||Those prices are certainly reasonable IFF they are genuine problems. I would question why a 2001 model has a bad radiator or a bad water pump. How many miles??
The head gasket should not have blown unless someone overheated it, which could happen if it was abused.
My advice: Take it to another mechanic. You can stomach the radiator and water pump....the head gasket is a MAJOR deal, $$ wise and also potential for ruining the engine. There are 3 ways you can tell if the head gasket is blown. You may get coolant in your motor oil. Pull the dipstick and see if the oil looks milky or cloudy. OR you are getting combustion gases in your coolant (heater core fills with air and won%26#039;t heat or gases bypass the radiator cap) OR after you let it sit overnight, start it and see if there is water coming out of the tailpipe. (Note: water is a by-product of normal combustion and I am not talking about a few drips after a long time running........I am talking about water coming out IMMEDIATELY after you start it.
If any of these 3 things are happening, you have a blown head gasket. If it has over 150K, I would salvage the car and NOT fix it. Let me know.|||Take this car bach to who you bought it from.
Water pump ~ $210
Radiator ~ unkown yet (makes me wonder if I could use the sealing stuff you can get at wal-mart.)
Head Gasket ~ $1300 (labor + parts)
This is not cheap - specially for a recent graduate college student.
My questions are:
-- Does that seem to be reasonable prices?
-- How hard is to fix the head gasket?
-- Head gasket problem is a pretty big deal?
-- Anyone wants a Cadillac Catera?
Note that my experience with cars is limited. I should have gotten a degree in mechanical engineering; not electrical. That would have certainly helped. But I am pretty handy and got some common sense for the most part.
Thanks in advance!|||Those prices are certainly reasonable IFF they are genuine problems. I would question why a 2001 model has a bad radiator or a bad water pump. How many miles??
The head gasket should not have blown unless someone overheated it, which could happen if it was abused.
My advice: Take it to another mechanic. You can stomach the radiator and water pump....the head gasket is a MAJOR deal, $$ wise and also potential for ruining the engine. There are 3 ways you can tell if the head gasket is blown. You may get coolant in your motor oil. Pull the dipstick and see if the oil looks milky or cloudy. OR you are getting combustion gases in your coolant (heater core fills with air and won%26#039;t heat or gases bypass the radiator cap) OR after you let it sit overnight, start it and see if there is water coming out of the tailpipe. (Note: water is a by-product of normal combustion and I am not talking about a few drips after a long time running........I am talking about water coming out IMMEDIATELY after you start it.
If any of these 3 things are happening, you have a blown head gasket. If it has over 150K, I would salvage the car and NOT fix it. Let me know.|||Take this car bach to who you bought it from.
Need help changing head gasket on 88 Honda Civic DX?
i have no clue what to do. all i know is i blew it.|||here%26#039;s a link to a DO IT YOURSELF with lots of pics to do a head gasket but its for a 92+ civic. still similar to the 88-91 civics besides the intake manifold. still a D-series motor but im pretty sure you can figure it out on your end. good luck!
http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-articl鈥?/a>
http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-articl鈥?/a>
Price of changing head gasket?
How much is a reasonable price for labor of changing a head gasket on h22 |||Just Head gasker on H22A It%26#039;s about $400-$500
How much of a job is changing a head gasket on an 10 year old astra?
HAVE WORKED ON OLDER CARS BUT IS A 10 YEAR OLD ASTRA MUCH DIFFERENT|||not really harder, just a little more technical and precise, the old vauxhall engines were considered safe because the pistions wouldn hit the valves if the cambelt wasnt right but the newer the engines design the more acurate it has to be to get the power it is supposed to develop so if you get it wrong it bends all the valves as they mangle into the pistons|||Most are quite easy
single ohc piece of cake
16valve %26amp; diesels
a little harder
best wishes|||no not really its quite is easy if it doesnt need to be skimmed, u literally take the head out of the engine, on astras it is right in the centre underneith the rocker cover. then either just change it or it will need to be skimmed and in that case can be quite an expenisive job..
hope this helps
single ohc piece of cake
16valve %26amp; diesels
a little harder
best wishes|||no not really its quite is easy if it doesnt need to be skimmed, u literally take the head out of the engine, on astras it is right in the centre underneith the rocker cover. then either just change it or it will need to be skimmed and in that case can be quite an expenisive job..
hope this helps
After changing head gasket on 1999 Chevy cavalier engine is running rough why?
Maybe you need a few adjustments or just let it be engaged. Some headgaskets like the Volvo head gaskets need some time for it to run smoothly.|||Probably you have a leak.|||first thing to do is to check the compression, then make sure the spark plug wires are correctly installed.While checking the compression also look at the spark plugs to make they are properly gapped. Also make sure the connectors to the injectors are firmly attached...If you have a compression problem, you may listen for popping , which maybe caused by push rod that is out of line.....plenty else that shpuld get the basics out of the way|||Could have a vacuum leak , crossed a plug wire, timing is off, lifter not pumping up,didn%26#039;t change the plugs and they are fouled, trouble code in the computer. I would check these. Normally you%26#039;ll find your problem is something overlooked.
Changing head gasket on 1989 Nissan 240sx?
How would I go on changing the head gasket on a 1989 Nissan 240sx KA24E Engine?|||Generally, changing the head gasket requires removing the distributer, Intake manifold, valve cover(s), exaust manifold(s), and the head.
Gaskets needed to replace, ALL of the above.
If you have valve issues, now would be the time to have them worked on.
Its not a really big job, but one that will take anywhere from a few hours to a few days. (depending if you don%26#039;t have any problems)|||pull the head and have it tested, clean all mating surfaces, install a new gasket, and if the head is ok...reverse the process. NOT advisable tho if you have never done one before|||you need to buy the book there is a trick to doing the timing chain
Gaskets needed to replace, ALL of the above.
If you have valve issues, now would be the time to have them worked on.
Its not a really big job, but one that will take anywhere from a few hours to a few days. (depending if you don%26#039;t have any problems)|||pull the head and have it tested, clean all mating surfaces, install a new gasket, and if the head is ok...reverse the process. NOT advisable tho if you have never done one before|||you need to buy the book there is a trick to doing the timing chain
When changing a head gasket, do i need new pieces?
ive read all the steps to change the head gasket. it says i need new head bolts, and a new timing belt. can i just use the old bolts and old belt? what is the worst that can happen? Thanks for the help. Really looking for a mechanics advise only on this one.|||No
If it calls for new bolts that means that they are torque to yield bolts witch means that they stretch when torqued.
As far as they timing belt goes. on some engines if the belt brakes you will bend valves so don%26#039;t cut cost here.
just do it by the book and save your self the trouble!!|||Yes, you should get new head bolts, especially if the car is higher mileage. The torque on the bolts, along with the new gasket, is what%26#039;s going to make that tight seal and if the bolts are weak, slightly bent or slightly stretched, you could end up with another leak. Don%26#039;t skimp, just get a new set of bolts when you pick up the gasket.
As for the timing belt, you don%26#039;t have to replace it, just that since you%26#039;re going to likely have it exposed and be that far into a top-end assembly tear down, you might as well replace it. They should be changed about every 60K miles, so there%26#039;s no better time than during your head gasket job! Why go through the tear down twice?
About %26quot;torque to yield%26quot; bolts mentioned by an above poster...don%26#039;t reuse, REPLACE! When bolts stretch, they won%26#039;t handle the same torque load they would before. The risk of breakage goes up. Best insurance is new bolts.|||What don%26#039;t you understand about the answers above. The bolts could break during assembly. Other than that they all told you what could happen if you reuse them. ( gasket could leak again, etc. ) Torque to yield bolts stretch when they are torqued down. Once they are removed they are scrap metal!
The same goes for the belt. While you are there change it simple. Most newer engines are not interference, so bent vales, smashed pistons if the belt breaks is unlikely. But do you want to do half the job again next week or next month? Just change it. it has to come off to pull the head anyway. The water pump suggestion is a good one as well. especially if it is driven by the timing belt. I would include a new thermostat, coolant hoses, %26amp; accessory drive belts in the list of parts as well!|||While you are there then I would replace the belt. Also, as above mentioned, your bolts are made to only have been torqued once. As far as your belt, you would hate to have to go back in there in a few thousand miles just to change a belt, and you may to damage to your valves if it breaks.|||Definitely use a new gasket, a new belt, you could reuse the bolts if you had to, but its recommended to replace them because of the stress and temperatures they have endured, better to do it rite the first time because the second time takes twice as long and cost twice as much.|||Read on man. I would get used bolts and a used gasket. I would also get as drunk as possible before you start.|||yeah... there aint nothing wrong with useing them as long as there is nothing wrong with them... when you take it apart make sure there aint alot of slack in your timming chain.... if there is a little thats normal for a stock motor.. but if there alot of slack i woulg change in... the worst thing that could happend if it wasnt changed an it needed to be it could jump timming causein it to run like s * * the bolts should be fine as long as there not wore or brokw that sort of thing if you do decide to replace the bolts buy the arp blts they make them pacific for that make a model insurin a good fit...|||u might as well replace it all
i would do the water pump too
If it calls for new bolts that means that they are torque to yield bolts witch means that they stretch when torqued.
As far as they timing belt goes. on some engines if the belt brakes you will bend valves so don%26#039;t cut cost here.
just do it by the book and save your self the trouble!!|||Yes, you should get new head bolts, especially if the car is higher mileage. The torque on the bolts, along with the new gasket, is what%26#039;s going to make that tight seal and if the bolts are weak, slightly bent or slightly stretched, you could end up with another leak. Don%26#039;t skimp, just get a new set of bolts when you pick up the gasket.
As for the timing belt, you don%26#039;t have to replace it, just that since you%26#039;re going to likely have it exposed and be that far into a top-end assembly tear down, you might as well replace it. They should be changed about every 60K miles, so there%26#039;s no better time than during your head gasket job! Why go through the tear down twice?
About %26quot;torque to yield%26quot; bolts mentioned by an above poster...don%26#039;t reuse, REPLACE! When bolts stretch, they won%26#039;t handle the same torque load they would before. The risk of breakage goes up. Best insurance is new bolts.|||What don%26#039;t you understand about the answers above. The bolts could break during assembly. Other than that they all told you what could happen if you reuse them. ( gasket could leak again, etc. ) Torque to yield bolts stretch when they are torqued down. Once they are removed they are scrap metal!
The same goes for the belt. While you are there change it simple. Most newer engines are not interference, so bent vales, smashed pistons if the belt breaks is unlikely. But do you want to do half the job again next week or next month? Just change it. it has to come off to pull the head anyway. The water pump suggestion is a good one as well. especially if it is driven by the timing belt. I would include a new thermostat, coolant hoses, %26amp; accessory drive belts in the list of parts as well!|||While you are there then I would replace the belt. Also, as above mentioned, your bolts are made to only have been torqued once. As far as your belt, you would hate to have to go back in there in a few thousand miles just to change a belt, and you may to damage to your valves if it breaks.|||Definitely use a new gasket, a new belt, you could reuse the bolts if you had to, but its recommended to replace them because of the stress and temperatures they have endured, better to do it rite the first time because the second time takes twice as long and cost twice as much.|||Read on man. I would get used bolts and a used gasket. I would also get as drunk as possible before you start.|||yeah... there aint nothing wrong with useing them as long as there is nothing wrong with them... when you take it apart make sure there aint alot of slack in your timming chain.... if there is a little thats normal for a stock motor.. but if there alot of slack i woulg change in... the worst thing that could happend if it wasnt changed an it needed to be it could jump timming causein it to run like s * * the bolts should be fine as long as there not wore or brokw that sort of thing if you do decide to replace the bolts buy the arp blts they make them pacific for that make a model insurin a good fit...|||u might as well replace it all
i would do the water pump too
What is the procedure for changing a head gasket in a 1999 plymouth voyager. Is it a difficult job.?
I recently brought a 1999 plymouth voyager 2.4L with 98000 miles. And I discovered to late that the radiator had been drained, and filling th coolant bottle is not enough to fill the water jacket. The results, I%26#039;m sure is overheating, and overheating=blown head gasket in short order. Now, that I have gone and done it...how can I fix it.|||You probably have more than a head gasket to worry about. The engine is probably ruined. You should take this car into a mechanic to get this fixed right. You might even want to see how much a used engine is installed. This is because when a head gasket blows, it%26#039;s seldom just the head gasket. The cylinder head or block could be warped or cracked as well and if it%26#039;s cracked or warped too bad, replacement is the only cure. The oil situation makes this more likely that the engine is history.|||So you drained the radiator and you tried to fill it up by topping off the overflow? If I read that right... a head gasket will probably not be the only thing wrong with it. The head will probably be cracked or warped also. If you noticed it and shut it down before it done any major damage.... Then yes, changing a head gasket is a big job. You have to pull the cylinder heads to swap it out. Take the heads to a machine shop and have em checked if you do it yourself.|||Overheating does not automatically mean a blown head gasket. Do a cylinder leakdown check to see if it%26#039;s actually blown first.
If it is blown, you%26#039;re really going to need a service manual to do the job correctly. It%26#039;s not a difficult job but there are many places where you can screw up and do more damage to the engine. At the very least, you need to be absolutely sure that you get the cam timing right. (And since you%26#039;re going to be pulling the timing belt to do the job, replace it with a new one. It%26#039;s cheap insurance!)
Even an experienced mechanic will do a %26quot;sanity check%26quot; in the service manual before proceeding.|||if you see milky color in oil and a lot of steam out exhaust pipe will need head job.
It involves tearing the top of the motor apart.
and people are right saying machine head.
Also have to tourque bolts on head and if you mess that up will still leak water.
Sorry of luck man that is going to cost at least 500-1000 dollars at a good shop. depend on how bad it leak can try stuff like Bars leak.
I would only try one time though that stuff if used too much can build up on heads and make mess.|||That is completely dependant on your skills / time / and ability to NOT throw heavy things when frustrated.
Because it is a van it is certainly a bit tougher than the average car - but it is not terrible (like the ford FI V8%26#039;s); but if you have a chore changing an ALT or Waterpump - then it is better to pay a shop.
Because that is a VERY long and big job, hit up your local auto parts store for a manual on that one - it is WORTH the money.|||you need to pull the entire top half of the engine off that means unhooking and unbolting every thing that is on your head your intake maifold can stay on and your exhaust manifold can stay on but you will need to crawl under your van and un bolt the exhaust from the exhaust manifold once every thing is done and your head is ready to come off with a braker bar break every head loose and un screw them once done you can remove your head now you need to remove your intakemanifold and your exhaust manifold then you need to send your head to a machine shop to check for cracks and warpage once the head is repaired then your ready to put it all back together you are going to need all new gaskets for the upper half of your engine witch they sell as a kit bacause those engines wre noted for this problem and your going to need all new head bolts do not use your old head bolts or any gaskets then you need a tork wrench to torke your head bolts down and your intake bolts and your exhaust bolts now your head bolts are tighted in a patteran witch you can find the patteran on the net or call the dealer or buy the book on the van and by the way its not a 2.4 its a 2.5|||The 99 van has a 2.4 not the 2.5 that was on the older vans!iowayoungman is mistaken!
First things first. Before you start tearing the engine apart, fill it with coolant and let it run. Look for signs of white smoke or the odor of coolant at the tailpipe. If there is no sign at the tailpipe, shut the vehicle down and allow it to cool. Check the oil, after cooling, for a milky looking substance. If there is no milk in the oil, then it is time for the final two tests.
Do a compression check on the engine. If that checks ok, it is doubtful that the head gasket needs replacement. Seeing as you have most likely stressed the gasket, If may be a good idea to re-torque the head bolts.
One trick to see if there is a head gasket problem is to take an exhaust gas analyzer and test for hydrocarbons at the radiator (remove the radiator cap and do not allow coolant to touch the probe) Hydrocarbons mean that you have a bad head gasket, the lack of them is a good sign!
With the additional information, it seems like it may be a head gasket. As bostonianinmo said, the best thing is to get a shop manual. Be very careful when you reinstall the head and timing belt, that motor will bend valves very easily.|||If not mechanically inclined then you should not attempt a head gasket on your own. I have seen people start head jobs and never finish them because they do not have the mechanical know how. I have done many head gasket/head replacements and they are very labor intensive. Good luck !|||Unless you really have a thing for pain and frustration I would take it somewhere to have it done. Changing head gaskets is a difficult and tiresome job. You%26#039;ll take off almost everything that is bolted onto the engine for one thing and that really sucks. If you aren%26#039;t certain that is the problem I wouldn%26#039;t even think of it. Some things (like a head gasket) are best taken to a professional. To me it%26#039;s worth the money not to have the hassle and to know that the right repair is THEIR responsibility.|||where did the oil on rear window come fm. a airplane ?|||Why was the radiator drained? Did you do it? If so, never pick up another tool again. If it was a dealer, go back and demand ammends.|||i just hope you did not pay too much for a99 voyager with 98k you have more problems than a headgasket|||if you know what youre doing, it isnt all that much trouble. if you have the correct tools, torque wrench ratchets etc etc. if not let someone else do it. you will come out cheaper less headaches.
If it is blown, you%26#039;re really going to need a service manual to do the job correctly. It%26#039;s not a difficult job but there are many places where you can screw up and do more damage to the engine. At the very least, you need to be absolutely sure that you get the cam timing right. (And since you%26#039;re going to be pulling the timing belt to do the job, replace it with a new one. It%26#039;s cheap insurance!)
Even an experienced mechanic will do a %26quot;sanity check%26quot; in the service manual before proceeding.|||if you see milky color in oil and a lot of steam out exhaust pipe will need head job.
It involves tearing the top of the motor apart.
and people are right saying machine head.
Also have to tourque bolts on head and if you mess that up will still leak water.
Sorry of luck man that is going to cost at least 500-1000 dollars at a good shop. depend on how bad it leak can try stuff like Bars leak.
I would only try one time though that stuff if used too much can build up on heads and make mess.|||That is completely dependant on your skills / time / and ability to NOT throw heavy things when frustrated.
Because it is a van it is certainly a bit tougher than the average car - but it is not terrible (like the ford FI V8%26#039;s); but if you have a chore changing an ALT or Waterpump - then it is better to pay a shop.
Because that is a VERY long and big job, hit up your local auto parts store for a manual on that one - it is WORTH the money.|||you need to pull the entire top half of the engine off that means unhooking and unbolting every thing that is on your head your intake maifold can stay on and your exhaust manifold can stay on but you will need to crawl under your van and un bolt the exhaust from the exhaust manifold once every thing is done and your head is ready to come off with a braker bar break every head loose and un screw them once done you can remove your head now you need to remove your intakemanifold and your exhaust manifold then you need to send your head to a machine shop to check for cracks and warpage once the head is repaired then your ready to put it all back together you are going to need all new gaskets for the upper half of your engine witch they sell as a kit bacause those engines wre noted for this problem and your going to need all new head bolts do not use your old head bolts or any gaskets then you need a tork wrench to torke your head bolts down and your intake bolts and your exhaust bolts now your head bolts are tighted in a patteran witch you can find the patteran on the net or call the dealer or buy the book on the van and by the way its not a 2.4 its a 2.5|||The 99 van has a 2.4 not the 2.5 that was on the older vans!iowayoungman is mistaken!
First things first. Before you start tearing the engine apart, fill it with coolant and let it run. Look for signs of white smoke or the odor of coolant at the tailpipe. If there is no sign at the tailpipe, shut the vehicle down and allow it to cool. Check the oil, after cooling, for a milky looking substance. If there is no milk in the oil, then it is time for the final two tests.
Do a compression check on the engine. If that checks ok, it is doubtful that the head gasket needs replacement. Seeing as you have most likely stressed the gasket, If may be a good idea to re-torque the head bolts.
One trick to see if there is a head gasket problem is to take an exhaust gas analyzer and test for hydrocarbons at the radiator (remove the radiator cap and do not allow coolant to touch the probe) Hydrocarbons mean that you have a bad head gasket, the lack of them is a good sign!
With the additional information, it seems like it may be a head gasket. As bostonianinmo said, the best thing is to get a shop manual. Be very careful when you reinstall the head and timing belt, that motor will bend valves very easily.|||If not mechanically inclined then you should not attempt a head gasket on your own. I have seen people start head jobs and never finish them because they do not have the mechanical know how. I have done many head gasket/head replacements and they are very labor intensive. Good luck !|||Unless you really have a thing for pain and frustration I would take it somewhere to have it done. Changing head gaskets is a difficult and tiresome job. You%26#039;ll take off almost everything that is bolted onto the engine for one thing and that really sucks. If you aren%26#039;t certain that is the problem I wouldn%26#039;t even think of it. Some things (like a head gasket) are best taken to a professional. To me it%26#039;s worth the money not to have the hassle and to know that the right repair is THEIR responsibility.|||where did the oil on rear window come fm. a airplane ?|||Why was the radiator drained? Did you do it? If so, never pick up another tool again. If it was a dealer, go back and demand ammends.|||i just hope you did not pay too much for a99 voyager with 98k you have more problems than a headgasket|||if you know what youre doing, it isnt all that much trouble. if you have the correct tools, torque wrench ratchets etc etc. if not let someone else do it. you will come out cheaper less headaches.
Is it necessary to replace the head bolts when changing a head gasket on an 87 BMW 325is?
I know that most repair sites recommend it, but is it always necessary. I didn%26#039;t have a problem with the head gasket failing, the timing belt broke and now I need to remove the head to replace some valves that got bent. Also, being that it%26#039;s an aluminum head, should I have it decked before I put it back on?|||I always replace the head bolts on a BMW. You have an Aluminum head and after a thousand miles of heating and cooling, expanding and contracting, the head bolts are stressed. Also consider that the piston slammed some valves up into the head and that also further stressed the bolts.
On BMW%26#039;s it is a rule for me to always get the heat tested %26amp; head decked (planned). You have an aluminum head bolted to a forged iron block, there is a difference between the way these 2 metals heat up and cool down, which causes allot of problems.
I have changed to many BMW heads to take a chance. I do not like doing things twice, because it makes it twice as expensive.
I have seen other reuse head bolts without an issue. How is your luck?|||I may have a thumbs down or more but I know all to much about torque to yield bolts and that I said below is correct. The chances your engine has torque to yield bolts is high.
depends on what bolts the engine has now. You can look into the oil filler cap and see the head bolts, if they look like they take an allen wrench you%26#039;re OK, otherwise replace them. A new set is like 45 bucks with shipping and I get new ones all the time just because I hate cleaning them, sometimes the bolts and head hols are so gunned up its hard to get the bolts out. So I just cut them in half.|||You should always replace them, cheap insurance. I have had to change plenty of broken reused head bolts. What%26#039;s worse: Buying a head bolt set? OR Breaking one and getting stuck somewhere plus having to do it all over again.
Word of advise, buy a set of head bolts.|||Have the head checked, definatly, and ALWAYS fit new head bolts they stretch, make sure they go back in sequence, if the gasket goes the head doesnt always distort unless the head bolts have been removed out of sequence.|||i try to write the answers your problem in my blog http://www.mystructuredsettlement.co.cc you can see any problem in my blog or in my business blog http://www.mysecuredloan.co.cc|||Yes. period. The old bolts have been stressed.New bolts should have came in the kit.Always replace.head bolts.Unless you want to do this half assed.|||No, it%26#039;s not necessary, but torque the bolts down correctly.|||do what they tell you/replace the bolts/bmw never does anything thats not necessary/check head|||Yes, the M20 engine design requires it.
On BMW%26#039;s it is a rule for me to always get the heat tested %26amp; head decked (planned). You have an aluminum head bolted to a forged iron block, there is a difference between the way these 2 metals heat up and cool down, which causes allot of problems.
I have changed to many BMW heads to take a chance. I do not like doing things twice, because it makes it twice as expensive.
I have seen other reuse head bolts without an issue. How is your luck?|||I may have a thumbs down or more but I know all to much about torque to yield bolts and that I said below is correct. The chances your engine has torque to yield bolts is high.
depends on what bolts the engine has now. You can look into the oil filler cap and see the head bolts, if they look like they take an allen wrench you%26#039;re OK, otherwise replace them. A new set is like 45 bucks with shipping and I get new ones all the time just because I hate cleaning them, sometimes the bolts and head hols are so gunned up its hard to get the bolts out. So I just cut them in half.|||You should always replace them, cheap insurance. I have had to change plenty of broken reused head bolts. What%26#039;s worse: Buying a head bolt set? OR Breaking one and getting stuck somewhere plus having to do it all over again.
Word of advise, buy a set of head bolts.|||Have the head checked, definatly, and ALWAYS fit new head bolts they stretch, make sure they go back in sequence, if the gasket goes the head doesnt always distort unless the head bolts have been removed out of sequence.|||i try to write the answers your problem in my blog http://www.mystructuredsettlement.co.cc you can see any problem in my blog or in my business blog http://www.mysecuredloan.co.cc|||Yes. period. The old bolts have been stressed.New bolts should have came in the kit.Always replace.head bolts.Unless you want to do this half assed.|||No, it%26#039;s not necessary, but torque the bolts down correctly.|||do what they tell you/replace the bolts/bmw never does anything thats not necessary/check head|||Yes, the M20 engine design requires it.
Is 拢250 a good deal for changing a head gasket?
its a VW Golf 1.6
Quote is 拢250 (labour) is that a good deal for changing a head gasket?
My local garage told me it will take them 2 days to fix it as he needs to strip the whole engine down. He also said he will change the timing belt for free if needed and also will change my fanbelt as i need a new one.
What do you think? Thanks|||拢250 sounds pretty reasonable to me - its a ***** of a job - new cam and fan belt thrown in too I see - these are the sort of things that give me a very warm feeling when I hear them.
Shop around if you think you%26#039;ll get a better deal but me personally I%26#039;d be very happy with that|||sounds reasonable.
its a big job
|||yeah its good enough but did he explain that it may still not fix the engine ??|||This is a reasonable quote.|||yeah good price worth it if ur getting cambelt done and fan belt included |||i think with the parts n labour including engine oil change it is worth 拢200. it is about 4 hours job. where the timing belt is concered, while changing the head gasket he will have to remove the old belt so he can just replace it with a new one.
it%26#039;s just around five min job to change a fanbelt.
|||yes thats a good price.|||I%26#039;ve been following your posts about your Golf; You don%26#039;t want a cheap job on the head gasket, you want a proper one.
The important things to ask are;
1) will the head been pressure tested whilst removed, and
2) will the head been %26#039;skimmed%26#039; if necessary - effectively re - machined to ensure it%26#039;s 100% flat.
Ask. They won%26#039;t be offended if they%26#039;re kosher.
As for the free cambelt, I%26#039;d say nothing%26#039;s free, and it would be foolish to swap a head without fitting a new belt, so that%26#039;s to be expected.
At 拢250 labour, you%26#039;ll be looking at 拢400 all in, possibly plus VAT, and that%26#039;s a price for a good job - just make sure you%26#039;re getting one.
If your garage is trustworthy, then that%26#039;s your best guarantee.
Quote is 拢250 (labour) is that a good deal for changing a head gasket?
My local garage told me it will take them 2 days to fix it as he needs to strip the whole engine down. He also said he will change the timing belt for free if needed and also will change my fanbelt as i need a new one.
What do you think? Thanks|||拢250 sounds pretty reasonable to me - its a ***** of a job - new cam and fan belt thrown in too I see - these are the sort of things that give me a very warm feeling when I hear them.
Shop around if you think you%26#039;ll get a better deal but me personally I%26#039;d be very happy with that|||sounds reasonable.
its a big job
|||yeah its good enough but did he explain that it may still not fix the engine ??|||This is a reasonable quote.|||yeah good price worth it if ur getting cambelt done and fan belt included |||i think with the parts n labour including engine oil change it is worth 拢200. it is about 4 hours job. where the timing belt is concered, while changing the head gasket he will have to remove the old belt so he can just replace it with a new one.
it%26#039;s just around five min job to change a fanbelt.
|||yes thats a good price.|||I%26#039;ve been following your posts about your Golf; You don%26#039;t want a cheap job on the head gasket, you want a proper one.
The important things to ask are;
1) will the head been pressure tested whilst removed, and
2) will the head been %26#039;skimmed%26#039; if necessary - effectively re - machined to ensure it%26#039;s 100% flat.
Ask. They won%26#039;t be offended if they%26#039;re kosher.
As for the free cambelt, I%26#039;d say nothing%26#039;s free, and it would be foolish to swap a head without fitting a new belt, so that%26#039;s to be expected.
At 拢250 labour, you%26#039;ll be looking at 拢400 all in, possibly plus VAT, and that%26#039;s a price for a good job - just make sure you%26#039;re getting one.
If your garage is trustworthy, then that%26#039;s your best guarantee.
Which is easier changing a engine or a head gasket?
My husband said that some people say that it is easier to change a engine in a SUV then to change the head gasket, Which do you think?|||Depends on the vehicle.|||There are a lot of variables here.
Depending on the engine, make, model, and year of the vehicle makes a big difference.|||To change a head gasket you have to dissassemble most of the engine. An engine swap means you have to disconect everything attached to the engine. When you figure for putting the new engine in and dealing with everything that is going to nickle and dime you to death, I%26#039;d say they%26#039;re pretty close difficulty-wise. Knowledge-wise, it takes a lot more knowledge to do a head gasket than it does to swap an engine. Tough call.|||we have done both recently and there is not much difference we still had to take the engine apart to do the gasket|||Head gasket is way easier. Besides, you are sure the job is done right. If you put a used engine in it, you don%26#039;t really know what condition it%26#039;s in. Most problems with the Bravada are due to a bad intake manifold design and a bad intake manifold gasket. There is a new part number for this problem. There is also a mammoth lawsuit against GM for poor design and manufacture. See ALLDATA data base in library for tips about how to handle this issue. Which engine do you have???? the 3.1, 3.4, or 3.8???? Anyway, the heads are far easier to remove than to remove the entire engine in one piece!!!!! Don%26#039;t use GM Dexcool after the repair is done. Use Mercedes Benz coolant. It is time proven and tested. Will protect engine the best for 150,000 more miles!!!!
Depending on the engine, make, model, and year of the vehicle makes a big difference.|||To change a head gasket you have to dissassemble most of the engine. An engine swap means you have to disconect everything attached to the engine. When you figure for putting the new engine in and dealing with everything that is going to nickle and dime you to death, I%26#039;d say they%26#039;re pretty close difficulty-wise. Knowledge-wise, it takes a lot more knowledge to do a head gasket than it does to swap an engine. Tough call.|||we have done both recently and there is not much difference we still had to take the engine apart to do the gasket|||Head gasket is way easier. Besides, you are sure the job is done right. If you put a used engine in it, you don%26#039;t really know what condition it%26#039;s in. Most problems with the Bravada are due to a bad intake manifold design and a bad intake manifold gasket. There is a new part number for this problem. There is also a mammoth lawsuit against GM for poor design and manufacture. See ALLDATA data base in library for tips about how to handle this issue. Which engine do you have???? the 3.1, 3.4, or 3.8???? Anyway, the heads are far easier to remove than to remove the entire engine in one piece!!!!! Don%26#039;t use GM Dexcool after the repair is done. Use Mercedes Benz coolant. It is time proven and tested. Will protect engine the best for 150,000 more miles!!!!
I am changing the head gasket on a cavalier and?
Yes, I am a chic who usually kicks butt on working on cars but not this time...
I threw all of the push rods into a bucket of gas to clean them. I felt kind of stupid immediately...knowing that in an 89 cavalier those push rods have been wearing in the same spots for many many years. This is the 2nd time I have changed the gasket (first time I needed a new head too---blah) and the last time I had the good sense to keep the push rods and rocker arms together. Anyway, how big of a deal is this really? My concern is the motor being noisy or of course having engine trouble..but how much trouble could I anticipate?|||Well hon, when disassembling an engine you have to place the parts on a order. Some parts can be reused like push rods. A quick inspection will tell you. The worst part is, did you marked them at least? It might be ok but the they have wear patterns and mixing them up and place them back on the wrong spots could cause premature wear.
Cleaning with Gasoline is not recommended (actually Gasoline was invented as a solvent). But it will not blow up your engine. Way back in the earlier days of Aviation, there was such thing as a Dilution System that dumped some fuel in the crank case of an Aircraft Piston Engine to make the oil thiner when the engine stopped in freezing temps. Once the engine cranked the fuel will evaporate due to the heat. Some times caught on fire... is not longer in use that system ;-)
The point is, that you need a good amount of fuel to happen, a part with some residue of Gasoline will not blow up. 1st you need oxygen and number too, the oil rushing through it will clean it on the spot.|||Rods are pretty cheap. Buy new ones - all perfectly the same - problem solved.
But first, I%26#039;d try the old ones - they may be just fine....
ps: don%26#039;t use gas to clean with... it goes boom|||you can tell witch way is up by the push rod guide wear. then inspect balls for chiping or wear . dont see any damage, i would reuse. new push rods are only 2-3 dollars a piece, if you have damaged ones. good luck|||You wont have a problem at all. The difference in the length of the rods is not even worth talking about. As long as none of them are bent, just whack them back in and let the automatic adjustment of the hydraulic cam followers take care of any differences.|||by mixing up push-rods the worst that can happen is that you will have to go back and adjust again later, length is important! rule of thumb is longer push-rod goes with longer rocker. if you think they are bad look at the center hole if there is a noticeable difference from smallest to biggest then replace them as far as top and bottom they are the same, and in case your curious I%26#039;ve been building performance engines for over 12yrs|||there shouldnt be any trouble just check them to see if any are bent
I threw all of the push rods into a bucket of gas to clean them. I felt kind of stupid immediately...knowing that in an 89 cavalier those push rods have been wearing in the same spots for many many years. This is the 2nd time I have changed the gasket (first time I needed a new head too---blah) and the last time I had the good sense to keep the push rods and rocker arms together. Anyway, how big of a deal is this really? My concern is the motor being noisy or of course having engine trouble..but how much trouble could I anticipate?|||Well hon, when disassembling an engine you have to place the parts on a order. Some parts can be reused like push rods. A quick inspection will tell you. The worst part is, did you marked them at least? It might be ok but the they have wear patterns and mixing them up and place them back on the wrong spots could cause premature wear.
Cleaning with Gasoline is not recommended (actually Gasoline was invented as a solvent). But it will not blow up your engine. Way back in the earlier days of Aviation, there was such thing as a Dilution System that dumped some fuel in the crank case of an Aircraft Piston Engine to make the oil thiner when the engine stopped in freezing temps. Once the engine cranked the fuel will evaporate due to the heat. Some times caught on fire... is not longer in use that system ;-)
The point is, that you need a good amount of fuel to happen, a part with some residue of Gasoline will not blow up. 1st you need oxygen and number too, the oil rushing through it will clean it on the spot.|||Rods are pretty cheap. Buy new ones - all perfectly the same - problem solved.
But first, I%26#039;d try the old ones - they may be just fine....
ps: don%26#039;t use gas to clean with... it goes boom|||you can tell witch way is up by the push rod guide wear. then inspect balls for chiping or wear . dont see any damage, i would reuse. new push rods are only 2-3 dollars a piece, if you have damaged ones. good luck|||You wont have a problem at all. The difference in the length of the rods is not even worth talking about. As long as none of them are bent, just whack them back in and let the automatic adjustment of the hydraulic cam followers take care of any differences.|||by mixing up push-rods the worst that can happen is that you will have to go back and adjust again later, length is important! rule of thumb is longer push-rod goes with longer rocker. if you think they are bad look at the center hole if there is a noticeable difference from smallest to biggest then replace them as far as top and bottom they are the same, and in case your curious I%26#039;ve been building performance engines for over 12yrs|||there shouldnt be any trouble just check them to see if any are bent
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